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Attire for the Races

Royal Ascot has begun this week and as Tatler announces, the first ever Royal Ascot at Home. The world’s most famous and prestigious week of flat racing begins for the first time ever behind closed doors. This of course hasn’t stopped the flood of fabulous suits and outfits appearing across social media and even Tatler, that famous British style bible, has revived old photographs of the royals at this special week of socialising and style. Whilst I won’t be attending Royal Ascot this year (no one will – aside from jockey’s and horses), it has led me to think about New Zealand’s own race week in November and what I might wear. Before I embark on a discussion about race-day attire for men, I felt it worthwhile to share this story of days gone by.

Wishing the candle out

I recall an amusing experience of once being invited to a Bank training course at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Singapore. In those day’s my decision to attend a training course or not, was led by the quality of hotel restaurant and the lunch, odd may it seem to those not familiar with the banking scene and 5 star hotel lunches. I was dead keen to attend this course, primarily because the Mandarin Oriental was also the home to the infamous Morton’s Steakhouse, Friday happy hours, were serious events to attend. Not only did Morton’s make the best Martini’s but the complementary steak sandwiches were perhaps the finest I had eaten anywhere. Anyway, back to the training course. For the life of me, I cannot recall what the training course was about, but I do recall an audience of about 30 people listening intently as the trainer announced that through the power of mind it is possible to force a candle flame out. The trainer instructed the group of 30 to sit in a circle, in the middle of the circle she placed a chair and on it a candle that she then lit. We were told that if we concentrated on the candle and nothing else we could as a group, force the candle out through mind power. So we sat down, participants from Manilla, Singapore, Hong Kong and Tokyo, all wishing, eyes closed, wishing for the candle to go out. One eye open, had it gone out? No, but it was definitely flickering, can’t be the air-con!!! Yes, was it really happening???? Then after about 5 minutes of wishing and hoping, the trainer leapt up, and clapped the flame out. With the immortal words, “See, if you just think about something, nothing will ever happen, you actually have to physically do something to make a change” How fabulous, what a ridiculously cool example. So to that end, race week is some 5 months away.

I dare say most people would not have given a thought to what to wear, maybe some have, but now is the time, don’t just think about what you might wear, clap the candle out and start planning and trying on some looks. I have a friend who runs an outfitters in Christchurch where I live, and he has told me that he never does well during race week because gentlemen tend come in at the last minute asking for suits to be made, which he simply can’t deliver due to the short notice, so now is the time! Whilst Southern Hemisphere racewear is less formal than Royal Ascot, there are still some outstandingly well-dressed gentlemen at both the New Zealand Race weeks in Canterbury and in Australia through Melbourne cup week.

What am I wearing to the Races in 2020?

Over the years I have tended to stick to linen double breasted suits in a variety of colours, I have a basic template that I stick with. I try and keep it simple but by doing the simple things well I hopefully achieve a sharp and super stylish look. My shirts are always white, my tie well done up with a small dimple and suit double breasted, well fitted in a block colour with a huge white pocket square., This is my look and this is what I’ll be wearing this year. I never ever go for gimmicky accessories, canes, gloves or anything else that is simply not consistent with contemporary sharp menswear.

What would I advise?

I think the starting point should be to spend some time researching race looks in order to understand the options. Everyone has a style that suits them best, I don’t believe that you can buy style, splashing the cash on Gucci head to toe may not necessarily equate to a great look. Your look should be one that you feel comfortable in, such that you feel fabulous, it should not put a gentleman outside of his comfort zone.

To last year’s New Zealand cup, I wore an outrageous head piece from my close friend Suzi Meares of Seventh and Figg. I wanted to prove that I could wear something feminine yet still appear masculine. The goal was to balance the hat with a very strong suit in order to break the boundaries of traditional style. Whilst undoubtedly there were critics, I did not mind as I believed in my look and in the strength of the hat in order to achieve a great look. So my message is most importantly about confidence, confidence is most critical to style.

Right now, the world has been turned upside down following Covid 19, budgets are tighter than usual so if you’re on a budget this is what I would do. First-up, step back into your wardrobe and assess the suits that you own. I believe that any suit can be adjusted to achieve a special look, i.e. a slight tapering of the jacket in order to get that hourglass jacket shape and side adjusters added to the trousers for example. I typically wear bright white crisp shirts that lead to a sharp look. If on a budget a great place to buy is through London’s TM Lewin online store, the shirts fit well and are great value for money. Of course there are an array of high end versions, from Turnbull and Asser through to one of my favourites right now, 100hands and the Italian Shirtmakers Santillo 1970.

I also believe that a great tie can also completely change a look, as such it’s well worth spending a little extra on a tie. Whist there are many many tie manufactures, I am very fond of Drakes of London as a tie-maker and my ultimate tie is from Hermes. Don’t be shy to shop online and for Southern Hemisphere gentleman, make the most of those great Northern Hemisphere sales to sort your tie for the races.

In assembling a look, your shoe choice is perhaps the most critical, bad shoes will ruin your look. Go, home, watch the Cup on your TV if you have bad shoes. Summer time is a great time to wear loafers, I just love them, if you are on a budget and you buy nothing else this year for the races, then invest in some great loafers. Whilst I have many pairs of loafers, from Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Crockett and Jones, to New and Lingwood, the pair that I love the most right now are from Berwick1707. Fabulous and highly affordable. Find these at Last and Lapel in Singapore and online.

In summary your look could be this;

  • Navy suit, fitted with side adjusters
  • Crisp white shirt
  • Drakes tie
  • Loafers from Berwick 1707

Don’t wish the candle out, now is the time.

Below I have posted some photos from those fabulous race days of the past, I’d like thank those super friends for making each event a stylish day to remember.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

MortonsSteakHouse MandarinOriental Drakes Hermes Berwick1707 LastandLapel 100Hands Santillo1970 NewandLingwood #SeventhandFigg Tatler TMLewin TurnbullandAsser

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