Cigars, Drake's London, Fragrance, Hermes, Menswear, Preppy, Ralph Lauren

All I want for Christmas

Another year has flown by, marked by new suits and a touch of tweed—a perfect moment to reflect on the year gone by and, of course, plan for the one ahead. It’s been inspiring to see the growing momentum toward vintage clothing, a refreshing shift from the fast fashion that dominates today. Ralph Lauren has embraced this trend brilliantly, buying back vintage pieces to resell to a market eager for timeless style.

In my own household, I’ve revived my Gucci horsebit loafers purchased from Harrods back in 1998. My sons have also raided my wardrobe, claiming treasures like a pair of vintage Fendi aviator glasses and several Hermès ties that have made appearances at social occasions throughout the year.

And so, once again, it’s time to draft my Christmas list for Santa. This marks my second “Dear Santa” note, and looking back at the last one I published a few years ago, I can’t help but notice how little has changed. So here it is—my Christmas list for 2025.

Winston Churchill’s famous “teddy bear” coat an oversized, double-breasted fur coat he often wore during the 1930s and 1940s. It became an iconic symbol of his bold, eccentric style that I very much admire.

1. Geo F. Trumper Eucris Eau de Toilette

This fragrance takes me back to a Mulberry scent I wore in the ’90s. It exudes quintessential British elegance and sophistication. Eucris is famously known as James Bond’s fragrance in Ian Fleming’s novel From Russia with Love—a true classic.

2. Ralph Lauren Madras Shirt

To pair effortlessly with my black dinner jacket and bow tie—juxtaposed against distressed, baggy jeans for that rebellious cocktail of formality and nonchalance.

3. Vintage fur coat.

Whilst we’re planning for the beach, winter is never far away. As I continue my style journey beyond the confines of suits, I’m always searching for new classics that break the traditional mold. At the top of my list for winter 2026 is a fur coat of flamboyant proportions—bold, unapologetic, and full of character. My goal? To pair it with an old Yankees cap in that rakish, sprezzatura style I so admire.

4. Preppy Striped Vintage Watch Strap

To frame my Bell & Ross with Ivy League charm.

5. Socks in a riot of colours

Because socks should never be boring—they’re the punctuation marks of a well considered outfit.

6. Tanqueray No 10. gin.

I absolutely love this gin—it’s a true classic that outshines all others. Perfect for a martini with a twist, and let’s not forget the bottle itself, which is undeniably stylish.

7. A Box of Partagas Serie D No. 4 Cigars
The perfect companion for late-night musings on style and life – my favourite.

8. Winston Churchill-Inspired Spectacles

I love horn rimmed spectacles, whilst I do not need glasses I feel as though the time might be approaching. Super elegant refined and considered.

9. Nicky Haslam Tea Towel – “Things Nicky Haslam Finds Common”

Because Nicky is a legend in style and design.

10. Dunhill Cigar Lighter

Because matches are common.

Any that’s a wrap, “if you can’t do it in style then don’t do it

Merry Christmas

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Shoes

The art of shoe style

It’s been ages since I posted anything, but the fashion world keeps spinning with new collections and trends constantly emerging.

I’ve noticed the rising trend in recycled clothing, perhaps driven by the cost-of-living crisis following Covid and rebranded as vintage. Ralph Lauren blazers, polos, and tees seem to look even better the second time around. It just goes to show that classic pieces never age.

I recently watched season three of HBO’s ‘White Lotus.’ The storylines are always quirky, and the cinematography is quite inspirational. Season three was set in Thailand, a place I’ve been fortunate enough to visit many times. The beaches are sensational, along with the food and nightlife.

I recall many years ago sitting on a beach in Thailand, smoking a cigar and having a beer. While not unusual, I remember wearing pink Abercrombie shorts, a distressed Ralph Lauren polo, and, of all things, a pair of chocolate suede Crockett and Jones oxford shoes. Thinking back, it seemed a risqué thing to do—wearing my favorite suede oxford’s to the beach, if not outright foolish. Nonetheless, despite the salt, they survived, and to this day, I still have the same oxford’s. I love them and, if I had to take one thing to a desert island, it would be these shoes. Watching ‘White Lotus’ reminded me of these shoes, and it seemed fitting to look back at some of the shoes in my collection, which I dare say are approaching that vintage age. So here goes, my top 10 pairs.

NUMBER 1. Sitting on the beach.

NUMBER 2. Loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo, too beautiful to wear!

NUMBER 3. Dunhill slip-ons only to be worn with a navy chalk stripe suit!

NUMBER 4. The finest shoes I own, Crockett & Jones hand grade.

NUMBER 5. From one end of China to another.

NUMBER 6. Maintaining traditions whilst breaking contemporary style.

NUMBER 7. A Races staple with great heritage.

NUMBER 8. Italian vintage hiking boots – essential pairing with suits and cords!

NUMBER 9. Snuff suede a classic with every look.

NUMBER 10. Belgium loafers something new.

That’s it, a quick fire top 10, not to be confused with ‘that bar’ in Singapore and only the tip of the iceberg of a much bigger collection.

Shoes have the ability to make or break an outfit; they are the single most important item in a wardrobe. Invest wisely, don’t be shy to buy online, trainers are fine, but not every day!

I should have been working, instead I was in the garden making pizza’s and snapping these pics!

If you can’t do it in style – don’t do it!

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polo, Uncategorized

It’s Polo season

The Polo season will soon be upon us. Such a majestic and fabulous sport that goes hand in hand with sensational style. Polo is widely known as the sport of kings and there is no doubt that polo events are always associated with decadence.

Black Friday sales are all over the internet right now and what better time to sort your Polo look for the new year season. But what to wear? Here’s my take.

Polo days in London

During my time living in London, I was fortunate enough to have attended several prestigious Polo events on the Smiths Lawn in the Great Windsor Park, including the Queens Cup and Cartier International Polo Days. Pimms, white jeans, La Martina, polo boots, ponies, chukker’s, Hermès, beating sun and style, all spring to mind when I think back to those heady days.

My polo style back then in the late 90’s always included white chino’s, a blue oxford cutaway collar shirt, mandatory Hermès tie and blue blazer all paired with the infamous horse-bit Gucci loafers. My style in these days was influenced by James Hewitt, famous for his relationship with the late Princess Diana and someone who was always in attendance at the Polo, not least a regular in many of my favourite bars along Fulham Road.

Today the London days seem an age ago, however I still carry those fond memories and regularly draw on my memory bank of style from those times as I plan my New Zealand polo outfits.

Dressing for the Polo

Polo style is more casual than races style, however that doesn’t mean looks are any less stylish or sophisticated. To me Polo style is more daring, I love to mix bright colours along with traditional pieces to create that all important sprezzatura look.

My last polo look included mixing bright pink lightweight corduroy trousers with a more formal six button double breasted blazer, cutaway collar shirt along with a vintage Ralph Lauren tie, camo cap, and suede tasselled loafers. My goal was to introduce a look that challenged the conventional by matching a very formal blazer with loud corduroy’s.

For this season’s Polo in Christchurch’s so English, and so beautiful Hagley Park, I will again look to mix colour with tradition. This year I will be wearing high waisted linen trousers in what Ralph Lauren describes as resort orange. These will be paired with a cutaway collar shirt and preppy tie and a blazer; the colour and style will be determined nearer the time. During the Black Friday sales, I have managed to secure some super fab two-tone loafers from Duke + Dexter, and these will be a key part of my look.

Great style should always be complemented by great fragrance. I am connoisseur of fine fragrance and in particular those fragrances that have base notes that include Oud. Oud is a divine fragrance that has a rich woody, smoky, leather aroma to it, it is a favourite as it is very masculine and old world and works perfectly with my looks. Over the years I have worn many fragrances that have a heavy Oud influence, including Leather Oud by Floris of London, Oud Wood by Tom Ford and Bois dAscese by Naomi Goodsir. Recently I have been wearing a new luxury New Zealand fragrance by Frater called Dynasty. Frater, describe Dynasty as ‘the scent of empires. The opening melds costly saffron and aged leather with the celebrated oil of oud Assafi, the most expensive perfume ingredient in the world’. I must say it’s been a joy to wear, and it will be a part of my look for next year’s Polo.

Women’s wear.

Whilst I don’t tend to write about women’s wear, I do want to call out these fab mules from Kat Maconie. I came across them last week at an event organised by Christchurch’s Shoe Curator, a store that is really bringing something new to New Zealand that is so needed. I’m a firm believer that shoes are the most important aspect of a wardrobe, shoes have the power to both make or break a look, from a women’s perspective you surely need nothing else.

Finally

It’s worth highlighting that I am not sponsored in anyway by any brand, these are my thoughts as to what I see as stylishly fabulous.

The Polo season is fast approaching, it’s the sport of kings and if you’re going dress like you mean it.

If you can’t do it in style don’t do it!

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Uncategorized

Sustainable Style

‘Greed is good’, a classic line from Gordon Gecko in that famous capitalist movie ‘Wall Street’ – but how much do we really need?

An unquenchable thirst.

We are living in unprecedented times, a global pandemic, a war, an escalating cost of living and a general unaffordability of life like never before. Covid enforced isolation, working from home and those hazy afternoons on the veranda have presented the perfect opportunity to reflect. What should I be buying next, what outfit, shoes, fragrance, book, tie, jumper, overcoat, something, there must be something? The need to make a purchase burning away like an unsmoked cigar in the humidor.

Oddly I have come to the conclusion that I don’t really need to buy anything, I’ve everything I need, a wardrobe full of shoes and coats and cords and more cords. Every season there always used to be something new, a look I wanted, a look that takes months of research, googling, late night calls to somewhere far off to confirm an order or check on a size. Somewhere, that I can only read about on Instagram or watch on a youtube clip today.    

I am aware that there seems to be a trend right now to embark on that great wardrobe cull. As they say, ‘if in doubt, chuck it out’. I really don’t subscribe to this at all, not even in the slightest. I’ve never thrown anything out and most certainly never intend to. Each pair of shoes, each tie each suit has a story behind it, like a diary without words, perhaps in the same way that albums or songs are a reminder of a time or place in our lives. Given this, my wardrobe is a story of my journey, one day it will be passed to my sons. Infact that day is coming sooner than I am ready for, as my favourite trousers and jumpers are already vanishing from the closet without explanation.

The wardrobe – when is enough, enough?

So often have I uncovered a piece of clothing that I used to wear, that now for one reason or another has been discarded towards the back of the closet. Each time I have been delighted with my find, whether it be the Gucci snaffle loafers, shawl collar cardigan or Swedish winter coat.

I can’t help but think in these times, that standing back and having a real look through your wardrobe might just provide some hidden gems, not least be a solution to the rising cost of living and thinking about that word that appears everywhere these days, ‘sustainability’.

I’m not suggesting that the pursuit of ultimate style should be compromised by not making those all-important purchases, however what I am saying is that quite often we have the necessary ammunition to dress impeccably without the need to go and buy something new. So often I hear, argh why did I buy that, it’s dreadful, what was I thinking? Of course, not every piece in the wardrobe is going to be a long-lost style shaker, there are some pieces that just no matter what cannot be resurrected.

To avoid this problem;

  • I always think long and hard before committing to a new piece;
  • consider how likely is it that I will wear it when I’m old (really old!!!);
  • can I wear it in both summer and winter?
  • will I always love it not just today, but does it rock?

What I never ever think about.

  • what anyone else thinks!

A label that I am loving right now.

FE Castleberry for his electric mix of colour, textures and fabric. I’ve been thrashing the FE Castleberry designed Kirk Originals glasses this year. Perhaps they will turn into a style gem for my boys in the future.

FE Castleberry has been a catalyst in encouraging me to look at my current wardrobe and to explore how I can combine styles to create a new look. Very inspirational.

If you can’t do it in style – don’t do it!.

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Uncategorized

The Style Hunter’s Trainers

It’s a cold winter’s day today, raining, grey and a day better spent inside by the fire. I’d been reading an article last night on Victoria Beckham that happened to mention her Adidas Stan Smith trainers. The article had been lingering in my style thoughts over coffee this morning and I thought about how many people both men and women, appear to spend lavishly on designer trainers which in my opinion are nowhere near as good as the originals that they are trying to emulate. I have a view that whilst designer trainers can look great, the most influential and stylish people typically draw on the original trainers rather than designer trainer copies. Certainly designer trainers scream ‘I’ve got cash’ however in my view this look is perhaps reflective of mail-order style rather than true creativity. So here’s my take on four of the most stylish men’s trainers you can buy.

No1. New Balance 990

The New Balance 990 was created in 1982 as a high performance running shoe. New Balance are now up to their 6th version of the infamous trainer almost 40 years later. For some reason this 80’s running shoe has become synonymous with exceptional style, worn by style influencers’ and designers throughout the globe. I love this trainer. It looks wicked with baggy tapered trousers and has that super casual but desperately cool appeal. If anyone ever asks me what I want for Christmas then the reply is always, a new pair of New Balance 990’s. 

No 2. Nike Cortez

Nike are always there or thereabouts when it comes to trainers. In terms of style there is in my opinion only one style that really cracks it for coolness and that is the Cortez. I love the elongated shape of these trainers and the fabulous colours and styling.

No 3. Adidas Superstar

These awesome trainers much like all of the trainers on my list, only get better with wear. Whilst Adidas has upgraded the Superstar slightly from the original styling these trainers consistently take a look to a super cool level. There are so many expensive designer imitations of the Superstar and the Adidas Stan Smith on the market, however these originals are without question the best.

No 4. Vans

A skater trainer you might think, one synonymous with ankle-high socks and baggy shorts. However, in my view this simple trainer has become a style icon amongst both the older generation and youth of today.  Vans have a rich history dating back to 1966. They are understated and work so well as part of a preppy look and come in a cool range of colours and designs.

Short but sweet! Summertime is a few months away yet, so for now the Sorel snow boots are the order of the day, however when the days start getting longer the snow boots will be cast aside for one of these four, if not all.

If you can’t do it in style then don’t do it!

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Uncategorized

The world’s finest Martini

Recently I arranged a small dinner party. It started on one of those late spring afternoons, a few casual drinks in the garden followed by some homemade pizza. I asked one of my good friends what he would like to drink, as he settled in with a Marlboro light. ‘You choose’, he responded.

I recalled that earlier the previous day I had placed two crystal martini glasses into the freezer, along with a bottle of Tanqueray gin. I knew the perfect drink for my friend. I would introduce him to the Martini as I knew them. So, here’s the story behind the perfect Martini.

London 1996

I’m not sure why, however in the late 90’s I seemed to have a thing for swanky London hotel bars. I’m not sure if it was because hotels tended to have the most money to spend on lavish bars, or it was just a fad, however hotel bars in London were divine and I was a regular at a few that included, the Long Bar at the Sanderson, the Light Bar at the St Martins Lane Hotel, The Blue Bar at the Berkeley, The Fumoir at Claridges, and my favourite of all hotel bars, The Library Bar at the Lanesborough.

An evening or an afternoon for that matter at the Library bar was like stepping into another world, the bustle and traffic of the nearby Hyde Park Corner seemed a million miles away. It was certainly easy to let an evening drift away in the most decadent surroundings fuelled by a Martini or two and accompanied by a cigar from the Library bar’s well stocked humidor. 

It was during this period that I learned the secret of the finest Martini. The barman and creator of these Martini’s was the now world-renowned Salvatore Calabrese. Salvatore’s approach to the Martini was simple, a frozen crystal glass, frozen gin/vodka and the smallest splash of vermouth, garnished with a twist (lemon) or an olive. 

The impact of these Martini’s could never be described on paper, the alcohol content for sure is strong, however once past the initial hit a Martini made by Salvatore can not be bettered. So, it became, that every Thursday for several years I would pull up a stool at the Library bar and order my usual, a Vodka Martini, straight up with an olive and a Partaga’s Serie d No 4, cigar. These were some of the finest days and nights I can remember, I never had more than three and only remember one occasion when I asked my black cab driver to pull over on Sloane Street on the way home as I felt some fresh air might be a good idea.

Today, Salvatore is no longer at the Library bar, he has had a celebrated career running many of Europe’s finest bars and can still be found on Facebook, YouTube sharing his knowledge of cocktail making. 

I have never forgotten this recipe and to this day always have two crystal glasses chilling in the freezer ready to take me back to such decadent times.

Incidentally my friend managed two Martini’s in my garden, the day after he remarked ‘ I don’t know what happened, I can’t even remember the pizza!’.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

If God created Man, then who on earth created the Martini?

Salvatore calabrese
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Uncategorized

Breaking the rules.

Urban Polo, Christchurch, New Zealand

Fresh from the weekend’s Polo, perhaps fresh is not quite the right word as I still feel under the weather after such a fabulous and decadent event. It’s been a while since I posted anything, however I wanted draw on a reaction I received at the Polo to my combination of a very traditional double-breasted blazer and tie along with a distressed camouflage cap. 

One lady commented, on seeing me for the first time, “your hat does not go with your outfit!”. 

I knew what I was doing, it wasn’t a mistake, a last-minute addition to protect my skin from the blazing sunshine, it was carefully planned. In my view what goes and what does not is a perception only. It’s just that people are not used to seeing a particular combination or something different and that does not mean it is wrong. 

Take the Landrover Defender for example, that very British SUV that is so loved across the globe as a both practical vehicle and a super stylish mode of transport. The shape has recently changed after 70 years, there are some that love it whilst others do not. In my view the new Defender looks outstanding, it is different for sure, but just because it is different and unexpected it does not mean that it is not fabulous. This is of course not an article about Landrovers’, however it is an article about being different and breaking the style rules – so here is how I break the style rules.

Using footwear to twist a look.

Snow boots

I’ve been a fan of mixing footwear to smash a look for some time. My Sorrel snow boots are a regular accessory which I love to pair with corduroys and a blazer in the winter. I love the contradiction of the super stylish blazer offset by the casual snow terrain boots.  

Hunter Wellington boots

One of my favourite looks from the past ten years is surely the combination of the infamous Hunter Wellington boots with coloured shorts (pink) and navy linen blazer. I think the reason that this look came about was during the rainy season whilst living in Shanghai. The weather would be dreadfully hot and often very wet, wearing the hunter boots meant I saved my Gucci loafers from the rain but still carried off a wicked look. Oddly I once managed to get into a nightclub in Shanghai wearing this look. 

Hiking boots

If anyone asked me to name one thing that will be a key piece of my winter wardrobe this coming season, then my response would most certainly be hiking boots. I’m not talking about the gortex versions from your local sporting goods store. I am however talking about the most divine, vintage, heavy leather type with the mandatory red laces. I plan to wear these with everything possible except a dinner suit. Watch this space.

Hats

Hats present a multitude of ways to change a look or add a bit of spark. Maybe the hat look has come about via the number of period drama’s right now, whether it be Peaky Blinders or the Crown, hats are huge. 

Most recently I’ve been wearing a lot of caps, which make it so easy to break the traditional look and combine casual with formal and achieve my goal of Sprezatura. Another go-to item that I often wear in the winter is my felt trilby, it’s great to be able to mix a look up by adding a trilby to sometimes a very casual look. 

Ties

There was a recent debate in New Zealand about whether the tie was dead. Several commentators in the fashion industry and in journalism proclaimed that the tie was dead. The tie of course is not dead, it’s as wickedly stylish now as it has ever been. I love to pair a tie with a vintage Ralph Lauren rugby jersey. I love ties, they are such a versatile accessory, but very misunderstood and often missing from many contemporary looks. The result being that many gentlemen look the same, a blur of grey suiting and open neck shirts. In my view this is a very careless look and something I steer well away from.

Blazers

I believe you can wear a blazer with almost anything. My favourite look is to team a blazer with camouflage combat trousers, such a contradiction of what might typically be expected, but it works so well.

Over the past few weeks of summer, I’ve been regularly pairing a linen blazer with wide vintage heavy cotton cream track pants. Again, not a look that might be expected, however the well fitted linen jacket with the almost baggy track pants creates, what is in my view, a super contrast. 

Overcoats

An item that seems to not have the following in New Zealand in the same way as in Europe, is the overcoat. Such a stylish seasonal item that in my view cannot be left out of a wardrobe. I have a double-breasted Harris Tweed overcoat that I love to pair with super casual items. It’s a great contrast and has that period feel to it, think ‘Chariots of Fire’, tweed and casual sports kit, such a wicked combination.  

Whilst these are my own views and looks, I’m pretty happy with my camo cap and double-breasted blazer, you’ll just have to get used to it.  

If you can’t do it in style, don’t so it!

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Menswear

Dear Santa

The races have been and gone and what a wonderful week of style, colour and socialising it all was. There’s never a dull moment as we now look forward in New Zealand to spending some time enjoying what our amazing country has to offer over the Christmas period. There will be no trips to Europe this year for a winter Christmas and no trips to Bali for that matter either, nonetheless there are a host of cool events to attend and divine experiences to be had over the summer in New Zealand. I always look forward to this time of the year as there is always an excuse to push the style boat out even further. We have the Polo to look forward to and a new casual suit to go with it, New Years eve, the European winter sales and of course Santa is coming.

A number of years ago now, whilst living in London I recall popping into Mulberry on Bond Street to buy a pair brogue shoes. I remember the gentleman who served me remarked on point, that “sometimes sir, a gentleman has to buy his own Christmas present”. I have never forgotten those wise words and oddly, more than 10 years later when I returned to London, I bumped into that same gentleman in New and Lingwood, another favourite store of mine on Jermyn Street SW1 and recounted that story, much to his delight. Of course, you can avoid buying your own Christmas presents if you let Santa know early what you would like. Given this, here are 10 things that I’m wishing for, so Santa, take note!

The Global Style Pilot’s Christmas List

1. Velvet Slippers from Stubbs and Wootton

I’m a huge fan of velvet slippers and so in need of a new pair, Stubbs and Wootton from Palm beach make the most fabulous slippers with a range of monograms and motifs.

www.stubbsandwootton.com

2. Floris Leather Oud, Eau de Parfum

My favourite fragrance comprises oud, and I just love Floris’ Leather Oud, Eau de Parfum. This divine fragrance draws on new leather and contains smoky aspects of oud oil. I’m a big fan of all things smoky and this fragrance is no exception.

www.florislondon.com

3. PJ Johnson – Kurta

Over the past few years I’ve been an avid follower of ethnic clothing. I think there is no other more influential wearer of this style than the fabulous Robert Rabensteiner, former fashion editor-at-large of L’Uomo Vogue. Robert is in my view is a style icon and I am a huge fan of his work. So right now, I’m wishing for a Kurta from the Australian menswear brand PJ Johnson.

www.pjt.com

4. New Balance 990 trainers

Trainers continue to be a style of shoe that cannot be ignored and are embedded in our lives. To this end I’m after a pair of New Balance 990. These shoes surpass all trainers in my view, they are an integral part of every style hunter’s wardrobe from Pitti Uomo, to here!

5. Tanqueray No. TEN Gin

I’ve always been a huge fan of gin, and my favourite is Tanqueray No. TEN. Whilst I love the flavor of this wicked gin, I also love the bottle that to me resembles Kryptonite from the superman movies. I first fell in love with Tanqueray No. Ten in the mid 2000’s when, whilst working in Tokyo, I was fortunate to spend my lunch hours shopping in Omotesando. I came across the most beautiful display in the Dunhill store in Omotesando Hills that included this fabulous bottle on a silver tray. To this day I always toast Tokyo when having a G&T.

6. Naked Clothing – Denim shirt

Ever since the early 2000’s my wardrobe has always included a denim shirt. I am very particular when it comes to denim and in terms of shirts’ I’m a huge fan of vintage washed denim. My goal in denim is a shirt that dries crisp on the washing line and looks super casual whilst really rocking it with a fabulous double-breasted blazer in that all important sprezaturra kind of way. In my view, the best place to find just what I’m after is via the Italian brand, Naked Clothing.

www.naked-clothing.it

7. Yellow Corduroy trousers

I just love the colour combination of yellow and blue and have been after a pair of yellow whale cords for the past year. Please Santa, I’ve been good!

www.cordings.co.uk

8. Leather and suede penny loafers Last and Lapel

I think one of my best finds over the past couple of years is the Last and Lapel store in Singapore. I’m a huge fan of the products they stock. In addition, Singapore was once my home for more that 5 years and a fabulous place to live it was. I love L&L’s awesome Berwick 1707 loafers, not only are they good quality but also outstanding value for money. Thanks Santa!

www.lastandlapel.com

9. Partagas Serie D No. 4 cigars

I’ve been smoking these cigars since the 1990’s. The best days of my life have been with these beauties. Well almost, light one and you are instantly transformed to a period of fabulousness that includes great tunes, sensational red wine and an evening to remember.

10. Red cashmere socks New and Lingwood

And as the gentleman told me, “sometimes sir, a gentleman has to buy his own Christmas present!” Well these are my choice.

www.newandlingwood.com

I shan’t say Merry Christmas as it’s still November. However, If you can’t do it in style, then don’t do it!

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New Zealand Cup

Red and Black is our team, but Blue is our colour.

Bubbles anyone?

It’s been a while since I posted anything, it’s not that I didn’t have the content. I think it is more to do with the fact that everyone has been so dreadfully busy, now that New Zealand are out of lockdown and life is generally business as usual, aside of course from any international travel. Nonetheless there’s still online shopping to keep my style habit fuelled and there’s no shortage of fabulous style ideas via social media, film and ideas formed through everyday life experiences.

I don’t intend to write specifically about style in this post, rather I intend to write about the most fabulous place that I live and the buzz and excitement that surrounds us in Canterbury as New Zealand’s premier horse racing week nears.

Canterbury

Canterbury is the home of New Zealand’s second biggest city, Christchurch. To me it is famous for its Cathedral, Britishness, rugby, braided rivers, the mighty southern alps and expansive plains that produce the world’s finest crops, cattle and lamb. Canterbury is also the home of the Canterbury Crusaders, arguably the world’s finest rugby franchise. The Canterbury rugby team are famous for their red and black colours, to all Cantabrians red and black is our colour. However, I’m also going to put it out there that whilst red and black is our team, blue is our colour. Blue is the colour of the Canterbury sky on a hot summers’ day, the same sky that frames the Southern Alps that all who live here are fortunate enough to claim as their winter playground. Blue is also the colour of some of Canterbury’s finest rivers, namely the Rakaia and Rangitata rivers that run a crystal cobalt in deep pools and are stocked with Salmon that run from the ocean to spawn every December – March. Blue is definitely our colour and it is also my favourite and is my go-to colour when it comes to suits.

The chat in the coffee shop

As we move into the first week of November the talk of our city and the chat over an espresso tends to centre around, “what days are you going this year?” and “have you sorted your outfit?” If you live in Christchurch, then at this time of the year, everyone knows that “what days are you going?” refers to the races.

Cup week

Cup week presents three very different days of racing, fashion and socializing. It all starts with the New Zealand Trotting Cup on the Tuesday at Addington. Cantabrians flock to this day which to my mind is less traditional than the gallops, but nonetheless it is still a fabulous opportunity to make a real fashion statement. The weather is generally scorching and along with stunning fashion, the day is quite a spectacle.

For me personally, I am more of a fan of the proceeding two days of gallops that start with Ladies’ day at Riccarton. To be honest, I am not entirely sure why it is called Ladies’ day, however, there can be no better way to spend a day in the summer’s sun, amongst those fabulous old oaks that shelter the members area of the racecourse. Ladies day on the Wednesday is less formal, however I regularly take the opportunity to wear my favourite cream double breasted linen suit to this day. I have the view that if a particular look works for you then there should be no reason why it shouldn’t be worn again. I’m not shy to repeat a look that I might have worn on a previous year to at least one of the three days. The great thing about Ladies’ day, is that members are allowed to bring in their own refreshments and fare, this of course allows for a bottle or two of our favourite champagne to make its way into the hamper alongside a range of goodies that might rival Harrods of London, Food Hall. We are fortunate that we are able to pack the hamper with many Canterbury sourced foods including fabulous salamis, smoked salmon, artisan breads and fruit, all from the region.

Of the three day’s my favourite is the New Zealand cup at Riccarton (gallops) on the Saturday. To this day I always wear my finest suits and accessories, including fragrance. There’s no expense spared and the planning can be as far out as 6 months or more. The expectation and excitement of the day is like no other. It comes every year, thank goodness! I might add that I don’t gamble, well only once! I can go to the races and not see a horse all day. However the races to me are not necessarily about the horse racing at all, the races are a catalyst, an enabler if you like, that brings people together in great style, to rekindle friendships, to chat about the year that’s been and discuss what the next will hold, to eat fine food and to be blissfully careless for one day. In my view there is no other day like it. We will be sad when it’s over, but we also know that we’ll all be back for race week again next year and in the meantime, we’ve still got the Polo to attend in March.

What am I wearing to the Saturday?

This year I’m wearing baby blue, the colour of a Canterbury sky just as light comes up, my pocket square as per usual will be big and white, like the single cloud that drifts high-up. My tie will be navy, like the deepest of deep blue pools of the Rakaia. So, whilst red and black is our team blue is our colour.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

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Drake's London, Four in hand tie knot, Hermes, man1924, Menswear, Ralph Lauren, ties

The Barber & Oscar Wilde

A tie should always be firmly done up and well knotted – always!

It’s been a while since I published a post. I’d been thinking for some time on what next. I take inspiration from a range of daily experiences and through my broader international links and subject matter sources. Rather than writing a piece on what I’m wearing, planning to wear, or what to expect at the next Pitti Uomo in Florence, I have decided to address the topic of ties. Two incidents have inspired me to write on this topic. The first, a Facebook memory that appeared on my page from a few years ago where I shared that fabulous quote from Oscar Wilde, “a well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.”

The second event occurred during my monthly trip to my barber for a tune-up. On this occasion I noticed with surprise that my barber was wearing a well tied tie. He remarked that he’d just acquired a new barber’s coat that looked great with a tie. I must admit it was a sharp look and reminded me at first of what I might expect if I was getting a cut in Milan. How fabulous that would be, perhaps he’d have served me a Negroni cocktail too – one can only but wish! Nonetheless, this experience highlighted just how powerful a tie can be and really what a great accessory the tie is. However, sadly it appears to be losing ground in our current environment of ‘dress for your day’ and general casualness.

Why wear a tie?

I would say that I tend to wear a tie almost every day, aside from the weekend. The dress code in the corporate office I work for is a typical “dress for your day”. So, in response to that, I wear a tie every day. My expectation is that every day should be fabulous and that I’m going to dress for an occasion even if I have nothing planned. There’s always the chance that a random invite will appear, an afterwork drink, an exhibition at a gallery or the launch of a European car, there’s always something. I believe you should always be prepared and never ever underdressed. To my mind a well tied tie, sets the gentleman apart. There’s certainly the perception of a gentleman who wears a tie as perhaps a person of professionalism and integrity. Although I dare say that there are wearers of ties who do not exhibit these traits. However, on the whole the tie really does make its mark if tied properly and contrasted with an exceptional shirt and suit/blazer.

Casual and Formal Ties

I see a clear difference in what I describe as casual ties as opposed to formal ties. Sure, they are both ties and to many people a tie is formal accessory that should be worn only on formal occasions. However, in my view the tie can be worn in a casual way without appearing overly stuffy and this is down to pattern of the tie and what it is worn with. Firstly, the pattern. Striped, military or club/school tie patterns are what I describe as casual ties. They can be worn in a variety of ways and right now my preference is with a striped or checked shirt worn underneath a vintage rugby jersey, to give that fabulous American preppy look. This look has been a Ralph Lauren staple for years, and it’s one that I regularly draw on.

I have two other favourite go-to label’s right now – namely Drake’s of London and the relatively new player in casual menswear, Man1924 of Spain. Both labels offer great casual menswear that brings new meaning to the word casual. The looks that both offer, are relaxed and often supported by casual ties that really stand these brands out from the rest. When it comes to formal looks and ties, I tend to go for block colours such as navy or burgundy, particularly if I’m wearing a pin-striped or houndstooth suit or blazer. In terms of patterned ties, the pinnacle of ties in my view is the Hermes tie. The Hermès tie is very distinctive through its quirky patterns on the finest of silk and unique in the way the knot appears when tied properly. Right, now I think there is a clear return of floral and paisley patterns that are quite striking particularly when tied with a heavy or large knot.

http://www.man1924.com

The Knot

Above all things, the knot of a tie is the most important, a badly tied tie or an undone tie can really spoil a look, so it is worth practicing in order to get the knot just right. I typically tie a four in hand knot and strive for that very important dimple just below the knot. See the following link on how to tie a four in hand knot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxwm47rTvk

My tips for wearing ties

  • Ties are a fabulous accessory when worn correctly, always and I mean always wear a tie firmly done up and well knotted
  • Learn how to tie a tie correctly, as bad knot can really take a gentleman’s look down a peg.
  • Gimmicky ties are a definite no-no.
  • An investment in a great tie is money well spent, Drake’s have great end of season sales where some fine pieces of silk can be acquired for a fraction of the normal price.

If you can’t do it in style don’t do it!

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