Camouflage and Military Style

Taking military style fabric from the battleground to the catwalk and high street has been a prominent trend now for a number of years. Valentino showed a camouflage sports jacket at Pitti Uomo 82, some eight years ago, so camouflage is certainly not a new idea. So here goes, my thoughts on camouflage and military style.

Olive Green

Firstly the tones in camouflage tend to suit everyone. I’ve never seen anyone looking ghastly in that prominent army green that defines camouflage. Of course today’s fabric makers have extended the traditional green camouflage to blues and reds also, which also look fabulous in my view.

Well, back to olive green and more broadly green. I have heard that there is such a thing as the ‘green disease’ where people become obsessed with the colour green. I’m really not sure if this is true, however I can see the attraction of a colour that really works well with most outfits. As I sit writing this, I’ve started to think just how much green I also own. There’s an olive double breasted suit in linen, green Ralph Lauren wax jacket, green Hunter wellies, green cashmere Ralph Lauren shawl jumper, green Harris Tweed suit… gosh…maybe I should rename the blog Green. Enough of the green, however it really is a versatile colour and should be explored if you have never thought of it.

Camouflage

I’ve been particularly interested in camouflage for a number of years now. I think it is because if works so well with formal suits creating that ‘Sprezzatura’ look that I am always chasing. I’m not so fond of being too perfect, breaking a suit up with a camouflage jacket helps to create a sense of confusion and challenge what dressing is about, which I am very keen on. Camouflage also goes so well with reds and pinks which are probably my signature trouser colour. For each camouflage piece I own, I always try and pair it with something more formal. My favourite look nearly six years ago now was to pair camouflage combat trousers with suede crocket and jones snuff loafers, pink striped shirt, Ralph Lauren bowtie and a 6 button double breasted blazer. It was in my opinion such a fab look and so unexpected to see the very formal blazer wickedly contrasting the camouflage combats, and loafers, sockless of course! Since this time, I’ve extended my camouflage wardrobe to include one very fitting cotton camouflage double breasted jacket. I had this made as I wanted to show my children that jackets and suiting could look fabulous and great style didn’t have to be restricted to a very traditional look. I must say it was great to turn up to the school performance making a statement rather than wearing the standard dad kit, each to their own I think. More recently I’ve bought a camouflage field jacket that looks super with orange corduroys. I think it goes back to the idea of matching colours on one hand and also breaking the traditional of what people might expect a gentleman to wear. Being the keen observer of style that I am, I’ve noticed that it isn’t only men but women are also recognising that camouflage is a fabric that just can’t be ignored right now. I’m not sure if we’ve reached peak-camouflage or not, maybe it’s always been around and will always be. Nonetheless even if I stop wearing my super double breasted camouflage jacket, it will be neatly stored for when my boys hit size 38R, because I know they’ll love it as wear it as much as I.

Other Military Kit

I don’t think I could talk about olive green and military style without mentioning the flying suit. I know, it’s pushing it. However I ordered an olive green flying suit online. It arrived neatly packaged, I tried it on after a pint. I thought, I knew, it looked great. I’d seen Ralph Lauren in one and I also follow a Japanese vintage retailer so I’d seen the flying suit before. I think what really led me to buy one was the picture of a regal Indian gentleman wearing one, hung on the wall of my Indian restaurant. The photograph was very old and the flying suit looked so colonial as such I swore it was right for me also. As it turns out, I’ve paired it will a tweed blazer, loafers and a pocket square, again to create that sense of confusion. It hasn’t had too many outings but I’m still pleased I own a flying suit.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

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Aging in Style

*The fabulously stylish Prince Michael of Kent*

On Friday evening as I was watching my eldest son play field hockey I became involved in some friendly banter with the team manager, as we stood mildly freezing on the side line. Mr X, the team manager, a British gentleman, over the course of our humorous conversation remarked he was old, but not as old as I! This of course got me thinking about age and style. So here goes my thoughts on growing older in style.

The Style journey

To my mind, the look of a fabulously stylish older person is one that has been carefully curated through a life of experiences and an understanding of what works and what doesn’t. This does not of course mean that younger people are not stylish, it just means that younger people are at the beginning of the never ending style journey. You can’t buy style, although it is clear that some people think that it comes in Gucci or Louis Vuitton head to toe, which of course it does not.

My personal style is one that has evolved over many years. There was definitely a period when I was caught between a classic British style and a more modern look, heavily influenced by Prada amongst others. Those were my younger days and I once recall buying a Prada tracksuit-style top, then promptly returning it a few days later. Another time I recall phoning the Prada store in Milan in search of some fur lined loafers. Thank goodness none of these items ever took up a permanent space in my wardrobe. However, it does show that the style journey is an evolving one.

A friend asked the other day how old I was. To be honest, I wasn’t sure. It took a while, however right now I am 52 soon to be 53. Is that old? Well it’s older than 25, however I believe that I am definitely cooler than when I was 25 and I can still probably beat my 14 year old son in a running race. I must say that I am very content with being 53, in fact I actually look forward to being 60. I can’t wait to see how my wardrobe might look in seven years’ time. I think that as I’ve gotten older my style has become more defined, I know what works and what doesn’t. The idea of fur lined loafers is long gone. If you are a younger person reading this, don’t fear if you haven’t yet found your style. That is ok, your time will come! I know this because I believe my time is now, yes, at 53 almost. I look forward to many fabulous years to come of tweeds, double breasted suits, loafers, cigars and fine fragrance.

What to wear if you are older than 25.

By the time you are older than 25, it is most likely that you will have an idea of what works for you. In an earlier post I talked about the importance of dressing for yourself and believing that you looked fabulous. This is still the case when you are older. I think that problems can arise when a gentleman perhaps dresses in a way that is not who he is, forgetting that style is a journey. Instead of applying what he has learnt across his life, he opts to hit the reset button. Pause the evolving style journey and let’s start again!

We’ve all seen the super skinny jeans and hip trainers really rocking on younger guys, however I’m not a fan of this look on older men. In pursuing this look the older man is, in my opinion, sending a clear message that he has not found his style and has therefore looked to return to an earlier stage of the style journey. I think this is also reflected through the ever increasing trend right now of cosmetic modification in order to achieve that younger look. I think this reflects the misinformed view that older people don’t look great. Well, they do, some of the most stylish men on the planet are older and cooler. These gentleman have recognized that great style is not about trying to appear younger, great style is the product of a journey, an ongoing journey.

Whilst I don’t want to get in to the women’s style debate, I also believe that this concept applies to very stylish women. Some of my most stylish female friends are older, in fact much older. However, rather than trying to stop the journey they have curated a look that is so outstanding. These ladies looks’ are punctuated by classic and timeless pieces (bangles, scarves, fragrance and hairstyles that ooze appeal and style) and are worn with confidence. If you know me on a personal level and you are wondering, “is it me?” Well the answer is invariably yes, you know who you are!

The looks of these ladies are truly beautiful and a clear example that beauty is ever-growing and not an age thing. I am not one of those people that simply suggest that older people are attractive simply because they are wise and experienced. Whilst this may be true, I am however a visual person and to me the style that older people exhibit is a look that I very much admire and aspire to.

I entitled this paragraph, what to wear if you are older than 25, yet to provide a generic list of items would in my view not be consistent with the thought that everyone is different and therefore everyone has a style. The answer lies in unlocking and discovering what your particular style is. You should therefore wear what suits you and what makes you feel great, rather than simply following a stero-type that an advertiser is promoting.

Older style.

I wanted to share on this post, some photographs of people who are older than 25 and whom I think their style is second to none. I find these people very inspirational and their influence has been fundamental to my own style journey. I’ve also included photographs of women whom I find particularly stylish. Just for good measure of course! Enjoy.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

https://youtu.be/3Vn7N6_MGZE

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Attire for the Races

Royal Ascot has begun this week and as Tatler announces, the first ever Royal Ascot at Home. The world’s most famous and prestigious week of flat racing begins for the first time ever behind closed doors. This of course hasn’t stopped the flood of fabulous suits and outfits appearing across social media and even Tatler, that famous British style bible, has revived old photographs of the royals at this special week of socialising and style. Whilst I won’t be attending Royal Ascot this year (no one will – aside from jockey’s and horses), it has led me to think about New Zealand’s own race week in November and what I might wear. Before I embark on a discussion about race-day attire for men, I felt it worthwhile to share this story of days gone by.

Wishing the candle out

I recall an amusing experience of once being invited to a Bank training course at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Singapore. In those day’s my decision to attend a training course or not, was led by the quality of hotel restaurant and the lunch, odd may it seem to those not familiar with the banking scene and 5 star hotel lunches. I was dead keen to attend this course, primarily because the Mandarin Oriental was also the home to the infamous Morton’s Steakhouse, Friday happy hours, were serious events to attend. Not only did Morton’s make the best Martini’s but the complementary steak sandwiches were perhaps the finest I had eaten anywhere. Anyway, back to the training course. For the life of me, I cannot recall what the training course was about, but I do recall an audience of about 30 people listening intently as the trainer announced that through the power of mind it is possible to force a candle flame out. The trainer instructed the group of 30 to sit in a circle, in the middle of the circle she placed a chair and on it a candle that she then lit. We were told that if we concentrated on the candle and nothing else we could as a group, force the candle out through mind power. So we sat down, participants from Manilla, Singapore, Hong Kong and Tokyo, all wishing, eyes closed, wishing for the candle to go out. One eye open, had it gone out? No, but it was definitely flickering, can’t be the air-con!!! Yes, was it really happening???? Then after about 5 minutes of wishing and hoping, the trainer leapt up, and clapped the flame out. With the immortal words, “See, if you just think about something, nothing will ever happen, you actually have to physically do something to make a change” How fabulous, what a ridiculously cool example. So to that end, race week is some 5 months away.

I dare say most people would not have given a thought to what to wear, maybe some have, but now is the time, don’t just think about what you might wear, clap the candle out and start planning and trying on some looks. I have a friend who runs an outfitters in Christchurch where I live, and he has told me that he never does well during race week because gentlemen tend come in at the last minute asking for suits to be made, which he simply can’t deliver due to the short notice, so now is the time! Whilst Southern Hemisphere racewear is less formal than Royal Ascot, there are still some outstandingly well-dressed gentlemen at both the New Zealand Race weeks in Canterbury and in Australia through Melbourne cup week.

What am I wearing to the Races in 2020?

Over the years I have tended to stick to linen double breasted suits in a variety of colours, I have a basic template that I stick with. I try and keep it simple but by doing the simple things well I hopefully achieve a sharp and super stylish look. My shirts are always white, my tie well done up with a small dimple and suit double breasted, well fitted in a block colour with a huge white pocket square., This is my look and this is what I’ll be wearing this year. I never ever go for gimmicky accessories, canes, gloves or anything else that is simply not consistent with contemporary sharp menswear.

What would I advise?

I think the starting point should be to spend some time researching race looks in order to understand the options. Everyone has a style that suits them best, I don’t believe that you can buy style, splashing the cash on Gucci head to toe may not necessarily equate to a great look. Your look should be one that you feel comfortable in, such that you feel fabulous, it should not put a gentleman outside of his comfort zone.

To last year’s New Zealand cup, I wore an outrageous head piece from my close friend Suzi Meares of Seventh and Figg. I wanted to prove that I could wear something feminine yet still appear masculine. The goal was to balance the hat with a very strong suit in order to break the boundaries of traditional style. Whilst undoubtedly there were critics, I did not mind as I believed in my look and in the strength of the hat in order to achieve a great look. So my message is most importantly about confidence, confidence is most critical to style.

Right now, the world has been turned upside down following Covid 19, budgets are tighter than usual so if you’re on a budget this is what I would do. First-up, step back into your wardrobe and assess the suits that you own. I believe that any suit can be adjusted to achieve a special look, i.e. a slight tapering of the jacket in order to get that hourglass jacket shape and side adjusters added to the trousers for example. I typically wear bright white crisp shirts that lead to a sharp look. If on a budget a great place to buy is through London’s TM Lewin online store, the shirts fit well and are great value for money. Of course there are an array of high end versions, from Turnbull and Asser through to one of my favourites right now, 100hands and the Italian Shirtmakers Santillo 1970.

I also believe that a great tie can also completely change a look, as such it’s well worth spending a little extra on a tie. Whist there are many many tie manufactures, I am very fond of Drakes of London as a tie-maker and my ultimate tie is from Hermes. Don’t be shy to shop online and for Southern Hemisphere gentleman, make the most of those great Northern Hemisphere sales to sort your tie for the races.

In assembling a look, your shoe choice is perhaps the most critical, bad shoes will ruin your look. Go, home, watch the Cup on your TV if you have bad shoes. Summer time is a great time to wear loafers, I just love them, if you are on a budget and you buy nothing else this year for the races, then invest in some great loafers. Whilst I have many pairs of loafers, from Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Crockett and Jones, to New and Lingwood, the pair that I love the most right now are from Berwick1707. Fabulous and highly affordable. Find these at Last and Lapel in Singapore and online.

In summary your look could be this;

Navy suit, fitted with side adjusters

Crisp white shirt

Drakes tie

Loafers from Berwick 1707

Don’t wish the candle out, now is the time.

Below I have posted some photos from those fabulous race days of the past, I’d like thank those super friends for making each event a stylish day to remember.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

MortonsSteakHouse MandarinOriental Drakes Hermes Berwick1707 LastandLapel 100Hands Santillo1970 NewandLingwood #SeventhandFigg Tatler TMLewin TurnbullandAsser

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Hats and Coats

Winter has arrived in the Southern Hemisphere, which is a season that I am very fond of. Winter provides the opportunity to wear more clothes than normal, heavy coats overlaying ‘T’s and lighter kit and of course smashing it in a hat. So here goes, my view on hats and coats.

Hat people

Being an observant person that I am, I have noticed that for some people hats are their thing, the hat makes them who they are and they are very rarely seen without a hat. To me these are the hat people as they’ve unlocked a secret that works for them. I’m sure most people can think of at least one friend who is indeed a hat person. One lady that I know springs to mind, she will of course know who she is if she’s reading this blog. There are numerous celebrities who are clear examples of hat people. Namely, UK DJ and ex-Culture Club front man, Boy George, singer and super cool dude, Pharrell Williams and superstar footballer David Beckham is an occasional hat person in my view. All of these gentleman absolutely smash it in a hat.

Hat Styles

Just like pocket squares and shawl scarves, hats can take a look to another level, the key is what hat, how and when to wear it and finally wearing the hat with supreme confidence. Confidence is key, confidence is an attribute that all hat people exude in abundance, they know they look fabulous and therefore wearing a hat is no problem, there’s definitely no fear. The key is to believe. I wouldn’t say I’m a hat person in the strictest sense, I do love hats and am proud to own a ‘Rollable Rambler’ from one of London’s most famous and historic hat makers Lock Hatters in St James’, I also own a fabulous brown trilby from Bates in London. Both are winter hats that I regularly wear with a range of looks. My weekend go to hat is a peak cap that I bought from Hackett in London, I love to wear it with a vintage sweatshirt and red cords, it’s a super look as it combines traditional style with modern relaxed pieces to achieve that effortless cool look that I am always chasing. The hat that is very popular right now is the page-boy cap, thanks to Peaky Blinders, I bought one of these a few years ago from Cordings in Piccadilly and love the soft charcoal tweed that again works well with a more casual relaxed weekend kit.

Hat Tips

I know what they say, you must never wear a hat inside, well I’m going to counter that, I believe that you can wear a hat inside and in fact you must if underneath you have a bad case of hat hair. Keep it on if that’s the case.

I also think that you can get away with a hat indoors if its part of your look rather than simply on your head in to order to keep you warm and dry or to keep the sun from your face.

Know your hat size – hats don’t just come in one size, the fit is important.

Coats

Coats are an essential item in any gentleman’s wardrobe. Although I never quite understand why it is that this very important item is quite often overlooked by southern hemisphere gentlemen. It could be that it is a climate thing, coupled with the outdoors lifestyle of southern hemisphere gentlemen, hence coats tend to be more practical as opposed to pieces of outstanding style. I would say however, that a great coat is perhaps one of the best investments anyone can make. Not only will you be warm on those cold winter days, but from a style perspective, a fabulous coat will take you to another level.

My Coats

I have a range of coats, all of them with a story to tell and all have been great investments. My current go-to coat that I can pretty much wear with anything is double breasted and made from Harris Tweed. I had this tailored and modelled it on a coat that Prince Charles once wore. It’s possibly the warmest coat that I have ever owned and looks sensational with heavy suits and also on a more casual basis with jeans and my favorite corduroys’. I love the fact that I can wear this heavy piece of tweed against a casual backdrop of ‘trackie-bottoms’ and still really rock it. I used to believe that if you owned a Rolex watch then no matter what you wore, you still appeared invincible. Well, I believe this double breasted coat has these very same qualities.

In terms of other coats, I also own very traditional duffle coat (Paddington style) that I purchased from Mulberry in London. This works well with a roll neck jumper and helps me achieve that very preppy British look that I love.

Coat Tips

Invest in a great coat, it may be costly, however you will get years of wear from it if you choose wisely.

In my view sporting coats are just not stylish in any form, they are practical and that is it. My rule is to never ever be seen in a sporting coat, unless I’m on the field of course!

As I’ve just come in from standing on the sideline watching my son play field hockey in what I can only describe as Baltic conditions, I am grateful for my double breasted Harris Tweed coat that has kept me warm. As I stood on the sideline I thought of this article and my mind wondered to that divine Teddy-Bear coat that Winston Churchill used to wear, one-day I will own one of these fabulous coats.

If you can’t do it in style then don’t do it!

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The Importance and Understated Versatility of a Pocket Square

Whilst engaging in a very stylish conversation with a friend recently, my friend asked what was the number one fashion item that I could not live without? I guess the question had stemmed from our discussion as to what records would I take to a desert island, if I could only take three ? – to be discussed at another time!

My friend undoubtedly expected a response along the lines, of “well it has to be my Gucci loafers, velvet slippers, houndstooth Man1924 Kennedy Jacket or my red corduroys”. In truth it is none of these items, whilst they are all fabulous in their own right, it is the simple pocket square that sits firmly as my number one fashion item that I cannot live without. So here goes, a discussion on the understated importance and versatility of a pocket square.

The importance of a pocket square

The simple pocket square has the ability to both add a degree of super-coolness and style to a look and on the other hand destroy a look completely. If executed in the right way the outcome is a fabulously stylish and effortless signal that reflects both confidence and sophistication.

The beauty of a pocket square is that they don’t necessarily require a significant financial outlay and in truth almost any small piece of fabric (perhaps 30cm X 30cm) will do the trick. There are of course some relatively expensive pocket squares on the market, I personally have a number from the London based brand Drake’s that are outstanding. However in my view it is not the expense or label that are important, the key is how you chose to fold/place the pocket square in your top pocket and secondly how the pocket square interacts with the colours and fabric that you are wearing.

I think that the number one mistake that a lot of gentlemen make is to try and match the pocket square with the tie. In my view the pocket square should never ever match ones tie. The pocket square should be a contrast to the tie or jacket and colours complementary. The pattern should also contrast with what you are wearing in a complementary way. For example a busy paisley pocket square in red’s and light blues against a navy linen jacket works well, the contrast of the busyness of the pocket square against the navy block creates an outstanding look. Whilst I have numerous pocket squares that I have collected over many years, my go to pocket squares tend to be white and I’m regularly seen in a Drakes heavy linen square in the summer and a silk one from Dunhill in the winter.

The second most important part of the pocket square once you’ve chosen the pattern is how you place the pocket square in your pocket. There are many websites dedicated to the art of folding a pocket square and the styles range from the various pointed styles (1,2,3 and 4 points) through to the puff and presidential styles. I don’t intend to provide a guide to how to fold these particular styles as these can be easily referenced through a spot of googling. In terms of my pocket square style I am inclined to not follow any particular technique, I like my pocket squares to be wild and carefree in order to achieve that ‘Sprezzatura’, effortless style appearance. The only time I specifically make sure my pocket square is super neat and square is when I am wearing a dinner suit.

The versatility of a pocket square

In terms of my own personal style I like to incorporate these fabulous pocket squares within my looks in a variety of ways. As long as the pocket square is large enough, I like to wear the linen ones as neckerchiefs in the summer. This technique works well with old ‘T’s and polo shirts and again achieves that effortless style appearance.

A trend that seems to be gaining greater momentum right now in Europe is to also wear the pocket square on ones wrist. I have worn this look on numerous occasions last summer and as per the neckerchief the result is the appearance of effortless cool which I love.

My tips for pocket squares

Never match the pocket square with the tie
Linen squares for summer
Pocket square colours should contrast and be complementary to one’s jacket, tie, shirt.
White pocket squares look great with almost anything.
A pocket square style for a dinner suit should be neat and simple
The fold of the square doesn’t have to be perfect.

DrakesLondon

Man1924

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Belts, Buckles & Gurkhas

One evening late last year, I received a video call from a friend who had recently moved to Hong Kong on a three month secondment. For this young gentleman, this was his first posting abroad and first Asian experience. The call caught me off-guard as it was rather late and to my surprise there was my friend all dressed for his first corporate event. However he had a predicament, which belt should he wear, or should he wear a belt at all? He stood there in his 5 star hotel room bemused, holding a belt up, “which one?” he asked. “Goodness, how fortunate could a young chap be?” I thought. He was about to hit some of Hong Kong’s coolest Soho bars and restaurants, surely the belt predicament was a minor hiccup in an otherwise fabulous night ahead!

So here’s my take on belts.

I have a strict rule that I never ever wear belts with formal suits and only ever wear belts with casual trousers. That is not to say that I am ok with empty belt loops, as to me an empty belt loop kind of looks like you are only partly dressed. Rather than having belt loops on my suit trousers I opt for side adjusters that neatly ensure my trousers remain where they should. Side adjusters result in a very clean line around the waist and give a very polished appearance. This neat little trick is very common in European suits and I can always tell straightaway where a gentleman has most recently lived or worked by weather he has side adjusters on his suit trousers or not.

The Gurkha Trouser.

Currently we are seeing a resurgence in the Gurkha style trouser. The method of keeping the trousers in just the right place is quite ingenious, with two flaps that tie across your middle and do up in a manner similar to side adjusters. The look is outstanding and best suited with higher waisted linen trousers. I’ve provided a photograph of a pair of Gurkha trousers, of which I have two pairs, below.

Belts.

As mentioned, I only ever wear belts casually. However I must say that one of my proudest moments was purchasing a Hermes belt from London’s Bond Street in the 90’s. In my opinion the gold ‘H’ Hermes belt is the pinnacle of belts and looks fabulous with white jeans, not to mention a host of coloured trousers as well.

Over the years I’ve acquired belts from Prada, Dunhill, Ralph Lauren, Etro and a rather large gold double ‘G” from Gucci in Rome that I bought in 2000.

Less label focused these days, I really do love some of Ralph Lauren’s preppy ribbon belts. Again if you wear them tied at your hip, you end up with a super clean line around your waist which I think looks outstanding. I have not been shy to also experiment with some of my older ties using them as belts, the look can be just as cool without the financial outlay.

My tips for keeping your trousers firmly where they should be;

If you are having a suit made, always opt for side adjusters, you will achieve a far more polished look.
If you are buying a suit off the rack, then some stores will provide a service whereby the belt loops can be removed and replaced with side adjusters.
If your suit has belt loops, always wear a belt, I’d opt for an understated belt, rather than an Elvis in Vegas special.
Ribbon belts are inexpensive and look super stylish.

If you can’t do it in style, then don’t do it.

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Going Instagram Live.

Join me and my friend and writer Kia D. Rodriguez for a very stylish chat. tonight on Instagram Live. We will be talking stylish smack and in a very candid conversation on fashion sense and sensibility. 8PM NZST

GO TO @MICHAELSTANTON4

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A Note to My Younger Self

My friend and fellow blogger, called me this afternoon, she said, ‘Hey, I need you to write something in a hurry, we’re running out of content’. I thought ‘ that can’t possibly be true’. As I sat wondering and rubbing my hands through my beard in a manner that drives my wife mad! It came to me, Beards, yes Beards!

How it started.

If you’d have said when I was 21 that I’d have a beard at 50, I would have fallen over in fright. You must be joking – why? how? that must be a mistake! I’m not a beard guy, I shave twice a day and there’s never even the slightest sight of stubble not even when I’m camping!

But it’s true I can vouch to my younger self that I have a beard. I love it, it’s fab, well I think so, and I’m never going to be without it.

It all started with a prod from what was fashionable perhaps 5 years ago. I’d dreamt about having a go, I’d gone a few days before without a shave and thought how dreadful. I’d tried a few times and just couldn’t. I came across a photo of the late Phillip Seymour Hoffman in a magazine and he had one, I thought I can do this too. I think if you’re going to grow one then the obvious time is over the Christmas holiday period. So that is how it started.

The Early days.

As my beard began to become a real beard, I had a stack of questions that needed to be answered. How do I maintain it? do I shampoo it? should I cut it myself? Oh dear the list of questions endless. I did some online research and leant about beard oils, balms and styles. Web content was far and wide, Instagram pages were even dedicated to beards, where did it end?

The most important decision I made in the early days, was that I should never ever cut it myself. Don’t even think about it! How many times had I seen guys with a beard one day and gone the next following some self-grooming gone wrong. I so wanted to avoid this. Afterall, you kind of got used to looking a certain way and the beard to no beard transition can be frightening.

There were times in the early days that I gave up and had to start again. I spent a month once growing a decent beard only to shave it off one night after a pint or two. As soon as it was gone, I desperately wanted it back, argh!

What I’ve learned about Beards

My closest friend when it comes to beards, is my Barber. Aside from myself he’s the only person whom I’ve ever let near my beard. His advice on styling has been outstanding. The shape of the beard is of huge importance and his advice in the early days invaluable, particularly with what suited my face shape and what worked with my hairstyle. We agreed that a beard could really rock with a great hairstyle. A bad hairstyle along with a beard would make me look like a hobbo or a sad uncle at the family Christmas party. I’ve looked to avoid this and constantly booked appointments at the Barber for every 4 weeks to tighten the beard and ensure my hairstyle equally as tight. I think my Barber calls this a ‘tune-up’.

Always one for a change, I’ve identified that the correlation between hair length and beard length is minus one for those mathematicians. What this means, and this is my approach at least, is as my hairstyle gets longer the beard goes shorter and as my hairstyle gets shorter the beard gets longer. Right now, my hairstyle is what I would describe as tight, similar to one of my role models, that being the French actor Vincent Cassel, whose short style is a favourite, and therefore my beard is a little fuller. I love it, I really do.

I think one of the reasons I love my beard, is that my face underneath is of the rounder shape, the beard elongates my face, and, in my opinion, a longer face makes sunglasses look better and hats suit you like a dream. How superb can it be that one can changes one’s appearance without doing anything at all, just sit and wait for it to grow!!!

My tips

I always avoid the too manicured beard styles, these kind of remind me of 90’s boy band looks.
I prefer the natural fade down the jaw line rather than a hard line which to my mind looks like the beard is a stick on one.
A beard balm smells fab and keeps your beard in check
Seek advice from your Barber, avoid DIY grooming If you can’t do it in style, then don’t do it.

SHOP NOW

NewCityBarbers

The Merchant Beard Balm

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The Global Style Pilot: Pilot

Who am I and how did I get here?

Whilst thinking about putting this blog together, it occurred to me that I needed to introduce myself. I had a mountain of articles ready to go but no article on who I was and how I became to be ‘The Global Style Pilot’. More importantly, I thought it appropriate to discuss what had inspired me to proceed with sharing my knowledge and thoughts on style to a global audience.

Saturday 4 April 2020.

It’s a warm autumn afternoon, normally on a Saturday afternoon I would be out watching my boys play field hockey. In the early evening we’d pop to my favourite Greek restaurant for a meal and a bottle of red. However, today we find ourselves in unpresented times, in lockdown as the world tries to overcome the Covid19 pandemic that threatens the wellbeing, health and lives of so many. So there is no field hockey and my Greek restaurant is closed for the foreseeable future. I dare say that what we knew as normal before the virus will be quite different in the aftermath. The lockdown has provided everyone the opportunity to stop and think, and in effect reset. So rather than just sit and wait until it all ends with the view to returning to normal, which of course may never happen, I have decided that if there is one thing more than anything else I would like to do. It is this, yes, to share my passion, knowledge and thoughts on style and contemporary menswear through a blog.

So what is it you do again?

Being quite a social person and attending many functions and parties (well, it would be rude not to!), I have often wondered why it is, that on meeting someone for the first time, the first question is; “so what is it you do again?” My view is, that it is not important how you choose to occupy your day time, what is far more important, is who you are, and for me that is what you see on my Instagram page. These are the pictures of my finest looks and pieces; double breasted suits, ties, shoes, colourful cords, tweed, shawl scarves, fragrance and books on style. This is me, this is what makes me the happiest. There is of course the argument that people’s lives are not as you might see on social media, however these pictures are me and this is what I do and wear, every day.

How did I get to here?

I got to this place and day, through a long journey. A journey that I have been fortunate enough to take, in most part sponsored by my once career working for an investment bank and my passion for style and fashion. My earliest days of building my style knowledge base began in London working in the square mile, a haven of financiers dressed impeccably, working in historic buildings and living a life of luxury in between times. I built a collection of Hermes ties. I learned about chalk stripes suits, loafers and brogues, overcoats, Dunhill, cigars, martinis, Gucci loafers and fragrance. I am what I would describe an observer. I study and save the ideas away for future reference. My London days are what I describe as my formative years on which there were 13 of them. During this time I was heavily influenced by Sloane style, perhaps an appropriate point of reference might be James Hewitt, the gentleman most famous for his relationship with Princess Diana.

During my London life I was fortunate to attend many influential and stylish events including the Cartier Polo, Henley, Wimbledon, Ascot and private parties. All forming a base for how I am today. Of course living in London provided me with a gateway to Europe, day shopping trips to Paris were a taken for granted luxury, weekend breaks to Milan, Rome and Madrid all added to my education in style and presentation.

Following London, I spent 5 years in Singapore, again working for an investment bank. Singapore introduced me to colonial living, black and white villas, bars and cigars. I was fortunate enough to spend periods in Tokyo and Hong Kong through my role with the bank. Each trip away allowed me to explore and enhance my knowledge of style and of course shop and socialize. Business trips to Tokyo meant work by day with quick shopping trips to Ginza and Omotesando in between times, followed by after work drinks at some of Tokyo’s most hip and stylish establishments.

At the end of my Singapore experience I took up a new challenge in Shanghai. Whilst London was the base building block and Singapore the middle tier, Shanghai to my mind, was another level altogether.

Shanghai, frequently known as the Paris of the East, dominated by Art Deco buildings and antiques introduced me to tailoring. I had never before had anything made by a tailor prior to living in Shanghai. I spent a great deal of time researching and looking for a high end tailor. I found one and the doors were immediately flung open, to this day he is one of my best friends. He has my measurements neatly filed, and awaits every few months for a new order. I typically plan ahead prior to each season. I have what I call influencers’ that I sometimes refer to and otherwise through reading and drawing on my memory, I choose pieces for him to make.

So I am here. I could be anywhere really. I carry a lifetime of experiences and an eye for style and now I’m opening up in this blog.

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The Socks vs. No Socks Debate

The ‘Socks’ v ‘No-Socks’ debate is one that seems to rage on and always without question comes up as a discussion point in the office when the topic of menswear arises. As I sit writing this article, ankles slightly refreshed from the air-conditioning that filters the office, ahead of another 31 degrees day, I recall a discussion on the lack of socks on Monday.

It so happened that on Monday I had a very important meeting with a client. It was the kind of meeting where socks were required along with a perfectly knotted Hermes tie. To be honest, I hadn’t really thought too hard about the socks. However, it seems that my regular lack of socks has attracted considerable attention and as a result, the appearance of socks framing my penny loafers resulted in at least 4 comments of various tones in the office and even my barista noticed the unusual appearance of socks. Given all of this I thought it appropriate to give my view on this interesting debate.

Sprezzatura

I think that most stylish men tend to have what I call influencers, i.e. stylish role models that one takes reference from and incorporates elements in ones look. I certainly do and one of my favourites is Prince Michael of Kent the very elegant British royal with a Russian heritage. Another element that I’m a very keen follower of, is the Italian word for effortless style and that is ‘Sprezzatura’. The term ‘Sprezzatura’ can be mostly simply be described as ‘studied carelessness’, and to my mind this is where the no-socks look has originated. Any close follower of menswear will have observed the so-often photographed Italian gentleman wearing a decadent suit, sans socks and over recent times, this look has been achieving a heightened level of interest and there are more ankles on display than ever before.

Tips for leaving the Socks in the draw.

As I regularly opt for the ‘No-Socks’ look here I introduce some key tips.

I personally think that if you are going to display your ankles then they really need to be tanned. There can surely be no more-ghastly look than pasty white ankles hanging beneath a suit or ‘Cords’. There are of course one of two ways to deal with this problem, either spend countless days suntanning which is a fabulous pastime if you are fortunate to lead the pure life of luxury or alternatively invest in a great fake tan. The second option is my preferred option, not least as it is this most health conscious and secondly because I am very fair, so tanning is a challenge.

I think that the ‘no-socks’ look paired with a suit gives that perfect ‘Sprezzatura’ impression. The tanned ankles, indicative of a life of luxury and vacation, the suit an extreme sense of style and paired with no socks achieves that look of effortless style.

I am a big supporter of loafers and the ‘no-socks’ look is outstanding when paired with loafers. This of course doesn’t mean that you can’t also look fabulous in lace up derby’s without socks.

When NOT to leave the socks behind.

What are my rules when it comes to NOT going the ‘sans socks’ route?

Well if it’s summertime or even spring, I’ll always leave the socks behind unless I have a very formal meeting or I’m wearing black-tie.

If it’s autumn/winter, then socks on, I think it’s just trying too hard if you are leaving the socks behind in the winter, even if you are tanned to the hilt. This to my mind is NOT ‘Sprezzatura’. You’re just trying too hard.

It’s going to be hot for a few months yet…today I’m rocking an Italian Solaro suit with chocolate suede derby’s – Sans socks of course.

If you can’t do it in style – don’t do it!