Drake's London, Four in hand tie knot, Hermes, man1924, Menswear, Ralph Lauren, ties

The Barber & Oscar Wilde

A tie should always be firmly done up and well knotted – always!

It’s been a while since I published a post. I’d been thinking for some time on what next. I take inspiration from a range of daily experiences and through my broader international links and subject matter sources. Rather than writing a piece on what I’m wearing, planning to wear, or what to expect at the next Pitti Uomo in Florence, I have decided to address the topic of ties. Two incidents have inspired me to write on this topic. The first, a Facebook memory that appeared on my page from a few years ago where I shared that fabulous quote from Oscar Wilde, “a well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.”

The second event occurred during my monthly trip to my barber for a tune-up. On this occasion I noticed with surprise that my barber was wearing a well tied tie. He remarked that he’d just acquired a new barber’s coat that looked great with a tie. I must admit it was a sharp look and reminded me at first of what I might expect if I was getting a cut in Milan. How fabulous that would be, perhaps he’d have served me a Negroni cocktail too – one can only but wish! Nonetheless, this experience highlighted just how powerful a tie can be and really what a great accessory the tie is. However, sadly it appears to be losing ground in our current environment of ‘dress for your day’ and general casualness.

Why wear a tie?

I would say that I tend to wear a tie almost every day, aside from the weekend. The dress code in the corporate office I work for is a typical “dress for your day”. So, in response to that, I wear a tie every day. My expectation is that every day should be fabulous and that I’m going to dress for an occasion even if I have nothing planned. There’s always the chance that a random invite will appear, an afterwork drink, an exhibition at a gallery or the launch of a European car, there’s always something. I believe you should always be prepared and never ever underdressed. To my mind a well tied tie, sets the gentleman apart. There’s certainly the perception of a gentleman who wears a tie as perhaps a person of professionalism and integrity. Although I dare say that there are wearers of ties who do not exhibit these traits. However, on the whole the tie really does make its mark if tied properly and contrasted with an exceptional shirt and suit/blazer.

Casual and Formal Ties

I see a clear difference in what I describe as casual ties as opposed to formal ties. Sure, they are both ties and to many people a tie is formal accessory that should be worn only on formal occasions. However, in my view the tie can be worn in a casual way without appearing overly stuffy and this is down to pattern of the tie and what it is worn with. Firstly, the pattern. Striped, military or club/school tie patterns are what I describe as casual ties. They can be worn in a variety of ways and right now my preference is with a striped or checked shirt worn underneath a vintage rugby jersey, to give that fabulous American preppy look. This look has been a Ralph Lauren staple for years, and it’s one that I regularly draw on.

I have two other favourite go-to label’s right now – namely Drake’s of London and the relatively new player in casual menswear, Man1924 of Spain. Both labels offer great casual menswear that brings new meaning to the word casual. The looks that both offer, are relaxed and often supported by casual ties that really stand these brands out from the rest. When it comes to formal looks and ties, I tend to go for block colours such as navy or burgundy, particularly if I’m wearing a pin-striped or houndstooth suit or blazer. In terms of patterned ties, the pinnacle of ties in my view is the Hermes tie. The Hermès tie is very distinctive through its quirky patterns on the finest of silk and unique in the way the knot appears when tied properly. Right, now I think there is a clear return of floral and paisley patterns that are quite striking particularly when tied with a heavy or large knot.

http://www.man1924.com

The Knot

Above all things, the knot of a tie is the most important, a badly tied tie or an undone tie can really spoil a look, so it is worth practicing in order to get the knot just right. I typically tie a four in hand knot and strive for that very important dimple just below the knot. See the following link on how to tie a four in hand knot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxwm47rTvk

My tips for wearing ties

  • Ties are a fabulous accessory when worn correctly, always and I mean always wear a tie firmly done up and well knotted
  • Learn how to tie a tie correctly, as bad knot can really take a gentleman’s look down a peg.
  • Gimmicky ties are a definite no-no.
  • An investment in a great tie is money well spent, Drake’s have great end of season sales where some fine pieces of silk can be acquired for a fraction of the normal price.

If you can’t do it in style don’t do it!

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