It’s Polo season

The Polo season will soon be upon us. Such a majestic and fabulous sport that goes hand in hand with sensational style. Polo is widely known as the sport of kings and there is no doubt that polo events are always associated with decadence.

Black Friday sales are all over the internet right now and what better time to sort your Polo look for the new year season. But what to wear? Here’s my take.

Polo days in London

During my time living in London, I was fortunate enough to have attended several prestigious Polo events on the Smiths Lawn in the Great Windsor Park, including the Queens Cup and Cartier International Polo Days. Pimms, white jeans, La Martina, polo boots, ponies, chukker’s, Hermès, beating sun and style, all spring to mind when I think back to those heady days.

My polo style back then in the late 90’s always included white chino’s, a blue oxford cutaway collar shirt, mandatory Hermès tie and blue blazer all paired with the infamous horse-bit Gucci loafers. My style in these days was influenced by James Hewitt, famous for his relationship with the late Princess Diana and someone who was always in attendance at the Polo, not least a regular in many of my favourite bars along Fulham Road.

Today the London days seem an age ago, however I still carry those fond memories and regularly draw on my memory bank of style from those times as I plan my New Zealand polo outfits.

Dressing for the Polo

Polo style is more casual than races style, however that doesn’t mean looks are any less stylish or sophisticated. To me Polo style is more daring, I love to mix bright colours along with traditional pieces to create that all important sprezzatura look.

My last polo look included mixing bright pink lightweight corduroy trousers with a more formal six button double breasted blazer, cutaway collar shirt along with a vintage Ralph Lauren tie, camo cap, and suede tasselled loafers. My goal was to introduce a look that challenged the conventional by matching a very formal blazer with loud corduroy’s.

For this season’s Polo in Christchurch’s so English, and so beautiful Hagley Park, I will again look to mix colour with tradition. This year I will be wearing high waisted linen trousers in what Ralph Lauren describes as resort orange. These will be paired with a cutaway collar shirt and preppy tie and a blazer; the colour and style will be determined nearer the time. During the Black Friday sales, I have managed to secure some super fab two-tone loafers from Duke + Dexter, and these will be a key part of my look.

Great style should always be complemented by great fragrance. I am connoisseur of fine fragrance and in particular those fragrances that have base notes that include Oud. Oud is a divine fragrance that has a rich woody, smoky, leather aroma to it, it is a favourite as it is very masculine and old world and works perfectly with my looks. Over the years I have worn many fragrances that have a heavy Oud influence, including Leather Oud by Floris of London, Oud Wood by Tom Ford and Bois dAscese by Naomi Goodsir. Recently I have been wearing a new luxury New Zealand fragrance by Frater called Dynasty. Frater, describe Dynasty as ‘the scent of empires. The opening melds costly saffron and aged leather with the celebrated oil of oud Assafi, the most expensive perfume ingredient in the world’. I must say it’s been a joy to wear, and it will be a part of my look for next year’s Polo.

Women’s wear.

Whilst I don’t tend to write about women’s wear, I do want to call out these fab mules from Kat Maconie. I came across them last week at an event organised by Christchurch’s Shoe Curator, a store that is really bringing something new to New Zealand that is so needed. I’m a firm believer that shoes are the most important aspect of a wardrobe, shoes have the power to both make or break a look, from a women’s perspective you surely need nothing else.

Finally

It’s worth highlighting that I am not sponsored in anyway by any brand, these are my thoughts as to what I see as stylishly fabulous.

The Polo season is fast approaching, it’s the sport of kings and if you’re going dress like you mean it.

If you can’t do it in style don’t do it!

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Sustainable Style

‘Greed is good’, a classic line from Gordon Gecko in that famous capitalist movie ‘Wall Street’ – but how much do we really need?

An unquenchable thirst.

We are living in unprecedented times, a global pandemic, a war, an escalating cost of living and a general unaffordability of life like never before. Covid enforced isolation, working from home and those hazy afternoons on the veranda have presented the perfect opportunity to reflect. What should I be buying next, what outfit, shoes, fragrance, book, tie, jumper, overcoat, something, there must be something? The need to make a purchase burning away like an unsmoked cigar in the humidor.

Oddly I have come to the conclusion that I don’t really need to buy anything, I’ve everything I need, a wardrobe full of shoes and coats and cords and more cords. Every season there always used to be something new, a look I wanted, a look that takes months of research, googling, late night calls to somewhere far off to confirm an order or check on a size. Somewhere, that I can only read about on Instagram or watch on a youtube clip today.

I am aware that there seems to be a trend right now to embark on that great wardrobe cull. As they say, ‘if in doubt, chuck it out’. I really don’t subscribe to this at all, not even in the slightest. I’ve never thrown anything out and most certainly never intend to. Each pair of shoes, each tie each suit has a story behind it, like a diary without words, perhaps in the same way that albums or songs are a reminder of a time or place in our lives. Given this, my wardrobe is a story of my journey, one day it will be passed to my sons. Infact that day is coming sooner than I am ready for, as my favourite trousers and jumpers are already vanishing from the closet without explanation.

The wardrobe – when is enough, enough?

So often have I uncovered a piece of clothing that I used to wear, that now for one reason or another has been discarded towards the back of the closet. Each time I have been delighted with my find, whether it be the Gucci snaffle loafers, shawl collar cardigan or Swedish winter coat.

I can’t help but think in these times, that standing back and having a real look through your wardrobe might just provide some hidden gems, not least be a solution to the rising cost of living and thinking about that word that appears everywhere these days, ‘sustainability’.

I’m not suggesting that the pursuit of ultimate style should be compromised by not making those all-important purchases, however what I am saying is that quite often we have the necessary ammunition to dress impeccably without the need to go and buy something new. So often I hear, argh why did I buy that, it’s dreadful, what was I thinking? Of course, not every piece in the wardrobe is going to be a long-lost style shaker, there are some pieces that just no matter what cannot be resurrected.

To avoid this problem;

I always think long and hard before committing to a new piece;
consider how likely is it that I will wear it when I’m old (really old!!!);
can I wear it in both summer and winter?
will I always love it not just today, but does it rock?

What I never ever think about.

what anyone else thinks!

A label that I am loving right now.

FE Castleberry for his electric mix of colour, textures and fabric. I’ve been thrashing the FE Castleberry designed Kirk Originals glasses this year. Perhaps they will turn into a style gem for my boys in the future.

FE Castleberry has been a catalyst in encouraging me to look at my current wardrobe and to explore how I can combine styles to create a new look. Very inspirational.

If you can’t do it in style – don’t do it!.

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The Style Hunter’s Trainers

It’s a cold winter’s day today, raining, grey and a day better spent inside by the fire. I’d been reading an article last night on Victoria Beckham that happened to mention her Adidas Stan Smith trainers. The article had been lingering in my style thoughts over coffee this morning and I thought about how many people both men and women, appear to spend lavishly on designer trainers which in my opinion are nowhere near as good as the originals that they are trying to emulate. I have a view that whilst designer trainers can look great, the most influential and stylish people typically draw on the original trainers rather than designer trainer copies. Certainly designer trainers scream ‘I’ve got cash’ however in my view this look is perhaps reflective of mail-order style rather than true creativity. So here’s my take on four of the most stylish men’s trainers you can buy.

No1. New Balance 990

The New Balance 990 was created in 1982 as a high performance running shoe. New Balance are now up to their 6th version of the infamous trainer almost 40 years later. For some reason this 80’s running shoe has become synonymous with exceptional style, worn by style influencers’ and designers throughout the globe. I love this trainer. It looks wicked with baggy tapered trousers and has that super casual but desperately cool appeal. If anyone ever asks me what I want for Christmas then the reply is always, a new pair of New Balance 990’s.

No 2. Nike Cortez

Nike are always there or thereabouts when it comes to trainers. In terms of style there is in my opinion only one style that really cracks it for coolness and that is the Cortez. I love the elongated shape of these trainers and the fabulous colours and styling.

No 3. Adidas Superstar

These awesome trainers much like all of the trainers on my list, only get better with wear. Whilst Adidas has upgraded the Superstar slightly from the original styling these trainers consistently take a look to a super cool level. There are so many expensive designer imitations of the Superstar and the Adidas Stan Smith on the market, however these originals are without question the best.

No 4. Vans

A skater trainer you might think, one synonymous with ankle-high socks and baggy shorts. However, in my view this simple trainer has become a style icon amongst both the older generation and youth of today. Vans have a rich history dating back to 1966. They are understated and work so well as part of a preppy look and come in a cool range of colours and designs.

Short but sweet! Summertime is a few months away yet, so for now the Sorel snow boots are the order of the day, however when the days start getting longer the snow boots will be cast aside for one of these four, if not all.

If you can’t do it in style then don’t do it!

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The world’s finest Martini

Recently I arranged a small dinner party. It started on one of those late spring afternoons, a few casual drinks in the garden followed by some homemade pizza. I asked one of my good friends what he would like to drink, as he settled in with a Marlboro light. ‘You choose’, he responded.

I recalled that earlier the previous day I had placed two crystal martini glasses into the freezer, along with a bottle of Tanqueray gin. I knew the perfect drink for my friend. I would introduce him to the Martini as I knew them. So, here’s the story behind the perfect Martini.

London 1996

I’m not sure why, however in the late 90’s I seemed to have a thing for swanky London hotel bars. I’m not sure if it was because hotels tended to have the most money to spend on lavish bars, or it was just a fad, however hotel bars in London were divine and I was a regular at a few that included, the Long Bar at the Sanderson, the Light Bar at the St Martins Lane Hotel, The Blue Bar at the Berkeley, The Fumoir at Claridges, and my favourite of all hotel bars, The Library Bar at the Lanesborough.

An evening or an afternoon for that matter at the Library bar was like stepping into another world, the bustle and traffic of the nearby Hyde Park Corner seemed a million miles away. It was certainly easy to let an evening drift away in the most decadent surroundings fuelled by a Martini or two and accompanied by a cigar from the Library bar’s well stocked humidor.

It was during this period that I learned the secret of the finest Martini. The barman and creator of these Martini’s was the now world-renowned Salvatore Calabrese. Salvatore’s approach to the Martini was simple, a frozen crystal glass, frozen gin/vodka and the smallest splash of vermouth, garnished with a twist (lemon) or an olive.

The impact of these Martini’s could never be described on paper, the alcohol content for sure is strong, however once past the initial hit a Martini made by Salvatore can not be bettered. So, it became, that every Thursday for several years I would pull up a stool at the Library bar and order my usual, a Vodka Martini, straight up with an olive and a Partaga’s Serie d No 4, cigar. These were some of the finest days and nights I can remember, I never had more than three and only remember one occasion when I asked my black cab driver to pull over on Sloane Street on the way home as I felt some fresh air might be a good idea.

Today, Salvatore is no longer at the Library bar, he has had a celebrated career running many of Europe’s finest bars and can still be found on Facebook, YouTube sharing his knowledge of cocktail making.

I have never forgotten this recipe and to this day always have two crystal glasses chilling in the freezer ready to take me back to such decadent times.

Incidentally my friend managed two Martini’s in my garden, the day after he remarked ‘ I don’t know what happened, I can’t even remember the pizza!’.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

If God created Man, then who on earth created the Martini?
Salvatore calabrese

*Classic Cocktails – Salvatore Calabrese*

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Breaking the rules.

Fresh from the weekend’s Polo, perhaps fresh is not quite the right word as I still feel under the weather after such a fabulous and decadent event. It’s been a while since I posted anything, however I wanted draw on a reaction I received at the Polo to my combination of a very traditional double-breasted blazer and tie along with a distressed camouflage cap.

One lady commented, on seeing me for the first time, “your hat does not go with your outfit!”.

I knew what I was doing, it wasn’t a mistake, a last-minute addition to protect my skin from the blazing sunshine, it was carefully planned. In my view what goes and what does not is a perception only. It’s just that people are not used to seeing a particular combination or something different and that does not mean it is wrong.

Take the Landrover Defender for example, that very British SUV that is so loved across the globe as a both practical vehicle and a super stylish mode of transport. The shape has recently changed after 70 years, there are some that love it whilst others do not. In my view the new Defender looks outstanding, it is different for sure, but just because it is different and unexpected it does not mean that it is not fabulous. This is of course not an article about Landrovers’, however it is an article about being different and breaking the style rules – so here is how I break the style rules.

Using footwear to twist a look.

Snow boots

I’ve been a fan of mixing footwear to smash a look for some time. My Sorrel snow boots are a regular accessory which I love to pair with corduroys and a blazer in the winter. I love the contradiction of the super stylish blazer offset by the casual snow terrain boots.

Hunter Wellington boots

One of my favourite looks from the past ten years is surely the combination of the infamous Hunter Wellington boots with coloured shorts (pink) and navy linen blazer. I think the reason that this look came about was during the rainy season whilst living in Shanghai. The weather would be dreadfully hot and often very wet, wearing the hunter boots meant I saved my Gucci loafers from the rain but still carried off a wicked look. Oddly I once managed to get into a nightclub in Shanghai wearing this look.

Hiking boots

If anyone asked me to name one thing that will be a key piece of my winter wardrobe this coming season, then my response would most certainly be hiking boots. I’m not talking about the gortex versions from your local sporting goods store. I am however talking about the most divine, vintage, heavy leather type with the mandatory red laces. I plan to wear these with everything possible except a dinner suit. Watch this space.

Hats

Hats present a multitude of ways to change a look or add a bit of spark. Maybe the hat look has come about via the number of period drama’s right now, whether it be Peaky Blinders or the Crown, hats are huge.

Most recently I’ve been wearing a lot of caps, which make it so easy to break the traditional look and combine casual with formal and achieve my goal of Sprezatura. Another go-to item that I often wear in the winter is my felt trilby, it’s great to be able to mix a look up by adding a trilby to sometimes a very casual look.

Ties

There was a recent debate in New Zealand about whether the tie was dead. Several commentators in the fashion industry and in journalism proclaimed that the tie was dead. The tie of course is not dead, it’s as wickedly stylish now as it has ever been. I love to pair a tie with a vintage Ralph Lauren rugby jersey. I love ties, they are such a versatile accessory, but very misunderstood and often missing from many contemporary looks. The result being that many gentlemen look the same, a blur of grey suiting and open neck shirts. In my view this is a very careless look and something I steer well away from.

Blazers

I believe you can wear a blazer with almost anything. My favourite look is to team a blazer with camouflage combat trousers, such a contradiction of what might typically be expected, but it works so well.

Over the past few weeks of summer, I’ve been regularly pairing a linen blazer with wide vintage heavy cotton cream track pants. Again, not a look that might be expected, however the well fitted linen jacket with the almost baggy track pants creates, what is in my view, a super contrast.

Overcoats

An item that seems to not have the following in New Zealand in the same way as in Europe, is the overcoat. Such a stylish seasonal item that in my view cannot be left out of a wardrobe. I have a double-breasted Harris Tweed overcoat that I love to pair with super casual items. It’s a great contrast and has that period feel to it, think ‘Chariots of Fire’, tweed and casual sports kit, such a wicked combination.

Whilst these are my own views and looks, I’m pretty happy with my camo cap and double-breasted blazer, you’ll just have to get used to it.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t so it!

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Camouflage and Military Style

Taking military style fabric from the battleground to the catwalk and high street has been a prominent trend now for a number of years. Valentino showed a camouflage sports jacket at Pitti Uomo 82, some eight years ago, so camouflage is certainly not a new idea. So here goes, my thoughts on camouflage and military style.

Olive Green

Firstly the tones in camouflage tend to suit everyone. I’ve never seen anyone looking ghastly in that prominent army green that defines camouflage. Of course today’s fabric makers have extended the traditional green camouflage to blues and reds also, which also look fabulous in my view.

Well, back to olive green and more broadly green. I have heard that there is such a thing as the ‘green disease’ where people become obsessed with the colour green. I’m really not sure if this is true, however I can see the attraction of a colour that really works well with most outfits. As I sit writing this, I’ve started to think just how much green I also own. There’s an olive double breasted suit in linen, green Ralph Lauren wax jacket, green Hunter wellies, green cashmere Ralph Lauren shawl jumper, green Harris Tweed suit… gosh…maybe I should rename the blog Green. Enough of the green, however it really is a versatile colour and should be explored if you have never thought of it.

Camouflage

I’ve been particularly interested in camouflage for a number of years now. I think it is because if works so well with formal suits creating that ‘Sprezzatura’ look that I am always chasing. I’m not so fond of being too perfect, breaking a suit up with a camouflage jacket helps to create a sense of confusion and challenge what dressing is about, which I am very keen on. Camouflage also goes so well with reds and pinks which are probably my signature trouser colour. For each camouflage piece I own, I always try and pair it with something more formal. My favourite look nearly six years ago now was to pair camouflage combat trousers with suede crocket and jones snuff loafers, pink striped shirt, Ralph Lauren bowtie and a 6 button double breasted blazer. It was in my opinion such a fab look and so unexpected to see the very formal blazer wickedly contrasting the camouflage combats, and loafers, sockless of course! Since this time, I’ve extended my camouflage wardrobe to include one very fitting cotton camouflage double breasted jacket. I had this made as I wanted to show my children that jackets and suiting could look fabulous and great style didn’t have to be restricted to a very traditional look. I must say it was great to turn up to the school performance making a statement rather than wearing the standard dad kit, each to their own I think. More recently I’ve bought a camouflage field jacket that looks super with orange corduroys. I think it goes back to the idea of matching colours on one hand and also breaking the traditional of what people might expect a gentleman to wear. Being the keen observer of style that I am, I’ve noticed that it isn’t only men but women are also recognising that camouflage is a fabric that just can’t be ignored right now. I’m not sure if we’ve reached peak-camouflage or not, maybe it’s always been around and will always be. Nonetheless even if I stop wearing my super double breasted camouflage jacket, it will be neatly stored for when my boys hit size 38R, because I know they’ll love it as wear it as much as I.

Other Military Kit

I don’t think I could talk about olive green and military style without mentioning the flying suit. I know, it’s pushing it. However I ordered an olive green flying suit online. It arrived neatly packaged, I tried it on after a pint. I thought, I knew, it looked great. I’d seen Ralph Lauren in one and I also follow a Japanese vintage retailer so I’d seen the flying suit before. I think what really led me to buy one was the picture of a regal Indian gentleman wearing one, hung on the wall of my Indian restaurant. The photograph was very old and the flying suit looked so colonial as such I swore it was right for me also. As it turns out, I’ve paired it will a tweed blazer, loafers and a pocket square, again to create that sense of confusion. It hasn’t had too many outings but I’m still pleased I own a flying suit.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

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Aging in Style

*The fabulously stylish Prince Michael of Kent*

On Friday evening as I was watching my eldest son play field hockey I became involved in some friendly banter with the team manager, as we stood mildly freezing on the side line. Mr X, the team manager, a British gentleman, over the course of our humorous conversation remarked he was old, but not as old as I! This of course got me thinking about age and style. So here goes my thoughts on growing older in style.

The Style journey

To my mind, the look of a fabulously stylish older person is one that has been carefully curated through a life of experiences and an understanding of what works and what doesn’t. This does not of course mean that younger people are not stylish, it just means that younger people are at the beginning of the never ending style journey. You can’t buy style, although it is clear that some people think that it comes in Gucci or Louis Vuitton head to toe, which of course it does not.

My personal style is one that has evolved over many years. There was definitely a period when I was caught between a classic British style and a more modern look, heavily influenced by Prada amongst others. Those were my younger days and I once recall buying a Prada tracksuit-style top, then promptly returning it a few days later. Another time I recall phoning the Prada store in Milan in search of some fur lined loafers. Thank goodness none of these items ever took up a permanent space in my wardrobe. However, it does show that the style journey is an evolving one.

A friend asked the other day how old I was. To be honest, I wasn’t sure. It took a while, however right now I am 52 soon to be 53. Is that old? Well it’s older than 25, however I believe that I am definitely cooler than when I was 25 and I can still probably beat my 14 year old son in a running race. I must say that I am very content with being 53, in fact I actually look forward to being 60. I can’t wait to see how my wardrobe might look in seven years’ time. I think that as I’ve gotten older my style has become more defined, I know what works and what doesn’t. The idea of fur lined loafers is long gone. If you are a younger person reading this, don’t fear if you haven’t yet found your style. That is ok, your time will come! I know this because I believe my time is now, yes, at 53 almost. I look forward to many fabulous years to come of tweeds, double breasted suits, loafers, cigars and fine fragrance.

What to wear if you are older than 25.

By the time you are older than 25, it is most likely that you will have an idea of what works for you. In an earlier post I talked about the importance of dressing for yourself and believing that you looked fabulous. This is still the case when you are older. I think that problems can arise when a gentleman perhaps dresses in a way that is not who he is, forgetting that style is a journey. Instead of applying what he has learnt across his life, he opts to hit the reset button. Pause the evolving style journey and let’s start again!

We’ve all seen the super skinny jeans and hip trainers really rocking on younger guys, however I’m not a fan of this look on older men. In pursuing this look the older man is, in my opinion, sending a clear message that he has not found his style and has therefore looked to return to an earlier stage of the style journey. I think this is also reflected through the ever increasing trend right now of cosmetic modification in order to achieve that younger look. I think this reflects the misinformed view that older people don’t look great. Well, they do, some of the most stylish men on the planet are older and cooler. These gentleman have recognized that great style is not about trying to appear younger, great style is the product of a journey, an ongoing journey.

Whilst I don’t want to get in to the women’s style debate, I also believe that this concept applies to very stylish women. Some of my most stylish female friends are older, in fact much older. However, rather than trying to stop the journey they have curated a look that is so outstanding. These ladies looks’ are punctuated by classic and timeless pieces (bangles, scarves, fragrance and hairstyles that ooze appeal and style) and are worn with confidence. If you know me on a personal level and you are wondering, “is it me?” Well the answer is invariably yes, you know who you are!

The looks of these ladies are truly beautiful and a clear example that beauty is ever-growing and not an age thing. I am not one of those people that simply suggest that older people are attractive simply because they are wise and experienced. Whilst this may be true, I am however a visual person and to me the style that older people exhibit is a look that I very much admire and aspire to.

I entitled this paragraph, what to wear if you are older than 25, yet to provide a generic list of items would in my view not be consistent with the thought that everyone is different and therefore everyone has a style. The answer lies in unlocking and discovering what your particular style is. You should therefore wear what suits you and what makes you feel great, rather than simply following a stero-type that an advertiser is promoting.

Older style.

I wanted to share on this post, some photographs of people who are older than 25 and whom I think their style is second to none. I find these people very inspirational and their influence has been fundamental to my own style journey. I’ve also included photographs of women whom I find particularly stylish. Just for good measure of course! Enjoy.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

https://youtu.be/3Vn7N6_MGZE

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Attire for the Races

Royal Ascot has begun this week and as Tatler announces, the first ever Royal Ascot at Home. The world’s most famous and prestigious week of flat racing begins for the first time ever behind closed doors. This of course hasn’t stopped the flood of fabulous suits and outfits appearing across social media and even Tatler, that famous British style bible, has revived old photographs of the royals at this special week of socialising and style. Whilst I won’t be attending Royal Ascot this year (no one will – aside from jockey’s and horses), it has led me to think about New Zealand’s own race week in November and what I might wear. Before I embark on a discussion about race-day attire for men, I felt it worthwhile to share this story of days gone by.

Wishing the candle out

I recall an amusing experience of once being invited to a Bank training course at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Singapore. In those day’s my decision to attend a training course or not, was led by the quality of hotel restaurant and the lunch, odd may it seem to those not familiar with the banking scene and 5 star hotel lunches. I was dead keen to attend this course, primarily because the Mandarin Oriental was also the home to the infamous Morton’s Steakhouse, Friday happy hours, were serious events to attend. Not only did Morton’s make the best Martini’s but the complementary steak sandwiches were perhaps the finest I had eaten anywhere. Anyway, back to the training course. For the life of me, I cannot recall what the training course was about, but I do recall an audience of about 30 people listening intently as the trainer announced that through the power of mind it is possible to force a candle flame out. The trainer instructed the group of 30 to sit in a circle, in the middle of the circle she placed a chair and on it a candle that she then lit. We were told that if we concentrated on the candle and nothing else we could as a group, force the candle out through mind power. So we sat down, participants from Manilla, Singapore, Hong Kong and Tokyo, all wishing, eyes closed, wishing for the candle to go out. One eye open, had it gone out? No, but it was definitely flickering, can’t be the air-con!!! Yes, was it really happening???? Then after about 5 minutes of wishing and hoping, the trainer leapt up, and clapped the flame out. With the immortal words, “See, if you just think about something, nothing will ever happen, you actually have to physically do something to make a change” How fabulous, what a ridiculously cool example. So to that end, race week is some 5 months away.

I dare say most people would not have given a thought to what to wear, maybe some have, but now is the time, don’t just think about what you might wear, clap the candle out and start planning and trying on some looks. I have a friend who runs an outfitters in Christchurch where I live, and he has told me that he never does well during race week because gentlemen tend come in at the last minute asking for suits to be made, which he simply can’t deliver due to the short notice, so now is the time! Whilst Southern Hemisphere racewear is less formal than Royal Ascot, there are still some outstandingly well-dressed gentlemen at both the New Zealand Race weeks in Canterbury and in Australia through Melbourne cup week.

What am I wearing to the Races in 2020?

Over the years I have tended to stick to linen double breasted suits in a variety of colours, I have a basic template that I stick with. I try and keep it simple but by doing the simple things well I hopefully achieve a sharp and super stylish look. My shirts are always white, my tie well done up with a small dimple and suit double breasted, well fitted in a block colour with a huge white pocket square., This is my look and this is what I’ll be wearing this year. I never ever go for gimmicky accessories, canes, gloves or anything else that is simply not consistent with contemporary sharp menswear.

What would I advise?

I think the starting point should be to spend some time researching race looks in order to understand the options. Everyone has a style that suits them best, I don’t believe that you can buy style, splashing the cash on Gucci head to toe may not necessarily equate to a great look. Your look should be one that you feel comfortable in, such that you feel fabulous, it should not put a gentleman outside of his comfort zone.

To last year’s New Zealand cup, I wore an outrageous head piece from my close friend Suzi Meares of Seventh and Figg. I wanted to prove that I could wear something feminine yet still appear masculine. The goal was to balance the hat with a very strong suit in order to break the boundaries of traditional style. Whilst undoubtedly there were critics, I did not mind as I believed in my look and in the strength of the hat in order to achieve a great look. So my message is most importantly about confidence, confidence is most critical to style.

Right now, the world has been turned upside down following Covid 19, budgets are tighter than usual so if you’re on a budget this is what I would do. First-up, step back into your wardrobe and assess the suits that you own. I believe that any suit can be adjusted to achieve a special look, i.e. a slight tapering of the jacket in order to get that hourglass jacket shape and side adjusters added to the trousers for example. I typically wear bright white crisp shirts that lead to a sharp look. If on a budget a great place to buy is through London’s TM Lewin online store, the shirts fit well and are great value for money. Of course there are an array of high end versions, from Turnbull and Asser through to one of my favourites right now, 100hands and the Italian Shirtmakers Santillo 1970.

I also believe that a great tie can also completely change a look, as such it’s well worth spending a little extra on a tie. Whist there are many many tie manufactures, I am very fond of Drakes of London as a tie-maker and my ultimate tie is from Hermes. Don’t be shy to shop online and for Southern Hemisphere gentleman, make the most of those great Northern Hemisphere sales to sort your tie for the races.

In assembling a look, your shoe choice is perhaps the most critical, bad shoes will ruin your look. Go, home, watch the Cup on your TV if you have bad shoes. Summer time is a great time to wear loafers, I just love them, if you are on a budget and you buy nothing else this year for the races, then invest in some great loafers. Whilst I have many pairs of loafers, from Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Crockett and Jones, to New and Lingwood, the pair that I love the most right now are from Berwick1707. Fabulous and highly affordable. Find these at Last and Lapel in Singapore and online.

In summary your look could be this;

Navy suit, fitted with side adjusters

Crisp white shirt

Drakes tie

Loafers from Berwick 1707

Don’t wish the candle out, now is the time.

Below I have posted some photos from those fabulous race days of the past, I’d like thank those super friends for making each event a stylish day to remember.

If you can’t do it in style, don’t do it!

MortonsSteakHouse MandarinOriental Drakes Hermes Berwick1707 LastandLapel 100Hands Santillo1970 NewandLingwood #SeventhandFigg Tatler TMLewin TurnbullandAsser

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Hats and Coats

Winter has arrived in the Southern Hemisphere, which is a season that I am very fond of. Winter provides the opportunity to wear more clothes than normal, heavy coats overlaying ‘T’s and lighter kit and of course smashing it in a hat. So here goes, my view on hats and coats.

Hat people

Being an observant person that I am, I have noticed that for some people hats are their thing, the hat makes them who they are and they are very rarely seen without a hat. To me these are the hat people as they’ve unlocked a secret that works for them. I’m sure most people can think of at least one friend who is indeed a hat person. One lady that I know springs to mind, she will of course know who she is if she’s reading this blog. There are numerous celebrities who are clear examples of hat people. Namely, UK DJ and ex-Culture Club front man, Boy George, singer and super cool dude, Pharrell Williams and superstar footballer David Beckham is an occasional hat person in my view. All of these gentleman absolutely smash it in a hat.

Hat Styles

Just like pocket squares and shawl scarves, hats can take a look to another level, the key is what hat, how and when to wear it and finally wearing the hat with supreme confidence. Confidence is key, confidence is an attribute that all hat people exude in abundance, they know they look fabulous and therefore wearing a hat is no problem, there’s definitely no fear. The key is to believe. I wouldn’t say I’m a hat person in the strictest sense, I do love hats and am proud to own a ‘Rollable Rambler’ from one of London’s most famous and historic hat makers Lock Hatters in St James’, I also own a fabulous brown trilby from Bates in London. Both are winter hats that I regularly wear with a range of looks. My weekend go to hat is a peak cap that I bought from Hackett in London, I love to wear it with a vintage sweatshirt and red cords, it’s a super look as it combines traditional style with modern relaxed pieces to achieve that effortless cool look that I am always chasing. The hat that is very popular right now is the page-boy cap, thanks to Peaky Blinders, I bought one of these a few years ago from Cordings in Piccadilly and love the soft charcoal tweed that again works well with a more casual relaxed weekend kit.

Hat Tips

I know what they say, you must never wear a hat inside, well I’m going to counter that, I believe that you can wear a hat inside and in fact you must if underneath you have a bad case of hat hair. Keep it on if that’s the case.

I also think that you can get away with a hat indoors if its part of your look rather than simply on your head in to order to keep you warm and dry or to keep the sun from your face.

Know your hat size – hats don’t just come in one size, the fit is important.

Coats

Coats are an essential item in any gentleman’s wardrobe. Although I never quite understand why it is that this very important item is quite often overlooked by southern hemisphere gentlemen. It could be that it is a climate thing, coupled with the outdoors lifestyle of southern hemisphere gentlemen, hence coats tend to be more practical as opposed to pieces of outstanding style. I would say however, that a great coat is perhaps one of the best investments anyone can make. Not only will you be warm on those cold winter days, but from a style perspective, a fabulous coat will take you to another level.

My Coats

I have a range of coats, all of them with a story to tell and all have been great investments. My current go-to coat that I can pretty much wear with anything is double breasted and made from Harris Tweed. I had this tailored and modelled it on a coat that Prince Charles once wore. It’s possibly the warmest coat that I have ever owned and looks sensational with heavy suits and also on a more casual basis with jeans and my favorite corduroys’. I love the fact that I can wear this heavy piece of tweed against a casual backdrop of ‘trackie-bottoms’ and still really rock it. I used to believe that if you owned a Rolex watch then no matter what you wore, you still appeared invincible. Well, I believe this double breasted coat has these very same qualities.

In terms of other coats, I also own very traditional duffle coat (Paddington style) that I purchased from Mulberry in London. This works well with a roll neck jumper and helps me achieve that very preppy British look that I love.

Coat Tips

Invest in a great coat, it may be costly, however you will get years of wear from it if you choose wisely.

In my view sporting coats are just not stylish in any form, they are practical and that is it. My rule is to never ever be seen in a sporting coat, unless I’m on the field of course!

As I’ve just come in from standing on the sideline watching my son play field hockey in what I can only describe as Baltic conditions, I am grateful for my double breasted Harris Tweed coat that has kept me warm. As I stood on the sideline I thought of this article and my mind wondered to that divine Teddy-Bear coat that Winston Churchill used to wear, one-day I will own one of these fabulous coats.

If you can’t do it in style then don’t do it!

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The Importance and Understated Versatility of a Pocket Square

Whilst engaging in a very stylish conversation with a friend recently, my friend asked what was the number one fashion item that I could not live without? I guess the question had stemmed from our discussion as to what records would I take to a desert island, if I could only take three ? – to be discussed at another time!

My friend undoubtedly expected a response along the lines, of “well it has to be my Gucci loafers, velvet slippers, houndstooth Man1924 Kennedy Jacket or my red corduroys”. In truth it is none of these items, whilst they are all fabulous in their own right, it is the simple pocket square that sits firmly as my number one fashion item that I cannot live without. So here goes, a discussion on the understated importance and versatility of a pocket square.

The importance of a pocket square

The simple pocket square has the ability to both add a degree of super-coolness and style to a look and on the other hand destroy a look completely. If executed in the right way the outcome is a fabulously stylish and effortless signal that reflects both confidence and sophistication.

The beauty of a pocket square is that they don’t necessarily require a significant financial outlay and in truth almost any small piece of fabric (perhaps 30cm X 30cm) will do the trick. There are of course some relatively expensive pocket squares on the market, I personally have a number from the London based brand Drake’s that are outstanding. However in my view it is not the expense or label that are important, the key is how you chose to fold/place the pocket square in your top pocket and secondly how the pocket square interacts with the colours and fabric that you are wearing.

I think that the number one mistake that a lot of gentlemen make is to try and match the pocket square with the tie. In my view the pocket square should never ever match ones tie. The pocket square should be a contrast to the tie or jacket and colours complementary. The pattern should also contrast with what you are wearing in a complementary way. For example a busy paisley pocket square in red’s and light blues against a navy linen jacket works well, the contrast of the busyness of the pocket square against the navy block creates an outstanding look. Whilst I have numerous pocket squares that I have collected over many years, my go to pocket squares tend to be white and I’m regularly seen in a Drakes heavy linen square in the summer and a silk one from Dunhill in the winter.

The second most important part of the pocket square once you’ve chosen the pattern is how you place the pocket square in your pocket. There are many websites dedicated to the art of folding a pocket square and the styles range from the various pointed styles (1,2,3 and 4 points) through to the puff and presidential styles. I don’t intend to provide a guide to how to fold these particular styles as these can be easily referenced through a spot of googling. In terms of my pocket square style I am inclined to not follow any particular technique, I like my pocket squares to be wild and carefree in order to achieve that ‘Sprezzatura’, effortless style appearance. The only time I specifically make sure my pocket square is super neat and square is when I am wearing a dinner suit.

The versatility of a pocket square

In terms of my own personal style I like to incorporate these fabulous pocket squares within my looks in a variety of ways. As long as the pocket square is large enough, I like to wear the linen ones as neckerchiefs in the summer. This technique works well with old ‘T’s and polo shirts and again achieves that effortless style appearance.

A trend that seems to be gaining greater momentum right now in Europe is to also wear the pocket square on ones wrist. I have worn this look on numerous occasions last summer and as per the neckerchief the result is the appearance of effortless cool which I love.

My tips for pocket squares

Never match the pocket square with the tie
Linen squares for summer
Pocket square colours should contrast and be complementary to one’s jacket, tie, shirt.
White pocket squares look great with almost anything.
A pocket square style for a dinner suit should be neat and simple
The fold of the square doesn’t have to be perfect.

DrakesLondon

Man1924

The Global Style Pilot

Style Hunter, Consultant, Navigator of current trends in contemporary menswear

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The Importance and Understated Versatility of a Pocket Square