Whilst engaging in a very stylish conversation with a friend recently, my friend asked what was the number one fashion item that I could not live without? I guess the question had stemmed from our discussion as to what records would I take to a desert island, if I could only take three ? – to be discussed at another time!  

My friend undoubtedly expected a response along the lines, of “well it has to be my Gucci loafers, velvet slippers, houndstooth Man1924 Kennedy Jacket or my red corduroys”. In truth it is none of these items, whilst they are all fabulous in their own right, it is the simple pocket square that sits firmly as my number one fashion item that I cannot live without. So here goes, a discussion on the understated importance and versatility of a pocket square.

The importance of a pocket square

The simple pocket square has the ability to both add a degree of super-coolness and style to a look and on the other hand destroy a look completely. If executed in the right way the outcome is a fabulously stylish and effortless signal that reflects both confidence and sophistication.

The beauty of a pocket square is that they don’t necessarily require a significant financial outlay and in truth almost any small piece of fabric (perhaps 30cm X 30cm) will do the trick. There are of course some relatively expensive pocket squares on the market, I personally have a number from the London based brand Drake’s that are outstanding. However in my view it is not the expense or label that are important, the key is how you chose to fold/place the pocket square in your top pocket and secondly how the pocket square interacts with the colours and fabric that you are wearing.

I think that the number one mistake that a lot of gentlemen make is to try and match the pocket square with the tie. In my view the pocket square should never ever match ones tie. The pocket square should be a contrast to the tie or jacket and colours complementary. The pattern should also contrast with what you are wearing in a complementary way. For example a busy paisley pocket square in red’s and light blues against a navy linen jacket works well, the contrast of the busyness of the pocket square against the navy block creates an outstanding look. Whilst I have numerous pocket squares that I have collected over many years, my go to pocket squares tend to be white and I’m regularly seen in a Drakes heavy linen square in the summer and a silk one from Dunhill in the winter.  

The second most important part of the pocket square once you’ve chosen the pattern is how you place the pocket square in your pocket. There are many websites dedicated to the art of folding a pocket square and the styles range from the various pointed styles (1,2,3 and 4 points) through to the puff and presidential styles. I don’t intend to provide a guide to how to fold these particular styles as these can be easily referenced through a spot of googling. In terms of my pocket square style I am inclined to not follow any particular technique, I like my pocket squares to be wild and carefree in order to achieve that ‘Sprezzatura’, effortless style appearance. The only time I specifically make sure my pocket square is super neat and square is when I am wearing a dinner suit.

The versatility of a pocket square

In terms of my own personal style I like to incorporate these fabulous pocket squares within my looks in a variety of ways. As long as the pocket square is large enough, I like to wear the linen ones as neckerchiefs in the summer. This technique works well with old ‘T’s and polo shirts and again achieves that effortless style appearance.

A trend that seems to be gaining greater momentum right now in Europe is to also wear the pocket square on ones wrist. I have worn this look on numerous occasions last summer and as per the neckerchief the result is the appearance of effortless cool which I love.

My tips for pocket squares

• Never match the pocket square with the tie
• Linen squares for summer
• Pocket square colours should contrast and be complementary to one’s jacket, tie, shirt.
• White pocket squares look great with almost anything.
• A pocket square style for a dinner suit should be neat and simple
• The fold of the square doesn’t have to be perfect.

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